Concluded from page 1962, part 16

The Adjustment of the Lining-making the Cuffs-finishing Off

Place the wrap, wrong side uppermost, on the table, and the lining over it, right side uppermost, the seams facing. Tack them together all over, smoothly and securely; turn in the edge of the lining to within about half an inch of the edge of the wrap; tack it down all round, then fell it neatly with fine silk to match, being careful not to draw the thread too tight or to take any stitches through to the right side.

N.B.-The lining must be slipped up inside to the top of each hook, and must cover the sewing on of them and of the eyes.

The bottom of the sleeves must not be turned in, or the lining felled down, until the cuffs have been put on.

To make the cuffs, join the piece of material for each of them into a round, press the seams open, then trace on each the design for the trimming, according to the directions given in the last lesson. Tack in the interlining, and sew on the satin piping in the same way as on the wrap.

Turn in the edge evenly all round the top, and herringbone it to the interlining; turn the cuffs inside out, join the lining into a round, making it slightly smaller than the material was made. Press the seams open, and tack the lining smoothly into each cuff.

N.B.-The lining must be held rather tight round the cuffs, or it will "set full" when the cuffs are turned over to the right side.

Turn in the edge round the top to within about half an inch of the edge, tack it down all round, then fell it neatly to the material.

Turn back the lining from the bottom of the sleeve, and pin it out of the way. Turn the cuffs right side out, and slip them over the bottom of the sleeves in the proper position, the raw edges of the cuffs level with the raw edge of the material of the sleeve. Pin, tack, and machine-stitch the cuffs round the sleeves, about half an inch from the raw edges. Remove the tacking, and turn all the raw edges over to the inside of the sleeve. This turning should be about one inch wide, so that it may be about half an inch beyond the stitching. Herringbone the raw edge to the interlining all round, then unpin the lining - which was turned back - and bring it over the raw edges. Tack it down smoothly -an inch or two from the edge-turn it in, covering the herringbone stitches. Tack, and then fell it neatly round the inside of each sleeve, just covering the line of stitching.

Remove all the tacking, and the wrap is finished.