Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework and Millinery, of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff, the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of'" Up-to-date Dresscutting and Drafting," also "The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring.'"
An old-fashioned sleeve, in the style shown in the first illustration, can be completely transformed and reappear in a modernised form, as in the second.
All the fulness of the puffs must be unpicked, and the marks of the gathers removed by pressing. If the material will allow of damping, the marks will disappear more thoroughly if a damp cloth is placed over them when pressing. The material of the old sleeve 'must then be cut to the length the top part of the sleeve is desired to be. This measure must be taken from the shoulder point of the arm, not from under the arm, and turnings must be allowed for, top and bottom. This piece of material must next be tucked perpendicularly, until a sufficient number of tucks have been made for the width of the " bell," which must be cut in one piece. Lightly press the tucks into position and place the two pieces of the sleeve pattern with the back seams meeting - from the elbow to the top - straight down one of the tucks, and cut out the " bell " in one piece - allowing for turnings.
N.B. - If any fulness is desired at the top of the sleeves, the seams of the pattern must slope slightly apart towards the top. Join the sleeve in the ordinary way and press it.
For the lower part of the sleeve, tuck a piece of the old material horizontally to the required length, and the width of a well-fitting sleeve at the elbow, plus turnings.
The material can be joined without showing, as often as is necessary, under the tucks. The length must be taken from the back of the arm, with the elbow slightly bent. Lightly press the tucks, then fold the piece exactly in half, and place a well-fitting sleeve on it, with the back of it along the fold from the wrist to the elbow, and as far above as is required to go under the bell. Pin the back of the sleeve level with the fold in this position to obtain the shape. There will now be a good deal of superfluous material at the bend of the arm at the inside seam. This must not be cut away, but must be disposed of under the tucks by folding them over and bringing them closer together at the seam of the sleeve, until the tucked material lies perfectly flat, and is the exact shape of the sleeve.-
An old-fashioned sleeve with a puff can be altered to a simpler style with tucks as here shown
Tack the tucks securely in this position before removing the sleeve, or the shape will be lost.
Cut it out in one piece, allowing for turnings, and unpin the pattern sleeve. Join and press the seam; turn up and "face" the sleeve round the wrist and up the opening. Put on the fasteners. Turn in the sleeve round the top, "face" it with a piece of lute ribbon, and run in a narrow elastic to the size of the arm, to hold the sleeve up and in position under the "bell."
N.B. - Tucked net, or lace, can be used for this lower part of the sleeve, if preferred, and may be lined with chiffon.
If the sleeves to be renovated are in thick material, and have a tight lining, they should be unpicked, the lining cut to fit the arm, and the material for the lower portion of the sleeve put on plain. It should be placed smoothly on to the lining, cut to shape and to the necessary height to reach under the bell, and machine - stitched in with the seams of the lining.
Press the seams open and overcast them; turn up and " face " the bottom and opening of the sleeves, and put on the fasteners. " Face " the raw edge of the material round the top with lute ribbon, or Prussian binding, to the lining.
Make and trim the upper portion or "bell" of the sleeve, slip it over the lining, tack it round the top, and stitch it into the bodice in the ordinary way, and overcast it.
Another method of modernising a full sleeve is, after unpicking and pressing it, to make a group of about four or five very narrow tucks down one side of the back of the sleeve, to leave a space of about one inch, and make another group of the same number of tucks, turning the reverse way.
This sleeve can be finished off above the elbow by a tucked band, the tucks running round the arm and down the space between the tucks on the sleeve; little groups of buttons can be placed at intervals. If preferred, the sleeve can be cut to reach to about three inches below the elbow, and finished off with a band buttoned loosely round the arm.
The sleeve must only have a seam at the inside of the arm, and must therefore be cut in one piece.
The tucks must be made first, and then the sleeve cut to shape from the sleeve pattern, the two pieces placed together as already described in this lesson.
Scarf with "Faggot Stitched" Border and Ends
A long crepe de Chine or ninon skirt, the front or side gore of which may have been accidentally soiled or stained, but which is otherwise in good condition, can easily be converted into a pretty and fashionable scarf. To do this, cut a length 20 or 22 inches wide, on the straight, selv-edgewise, from the longest gore, and cut it off straight at each end. This will form the centre of the scarf, and a length the same width and cut in the same way from one of the other gores will have to be joined on at each end to make it the necessary length - from 2 1/2 to 3 yards.
Make a very narrow, neat hem along each side, and at the ends of each piece, and press the hems carefully so as not to stretch the ends. Join the three pieces into one length by " faggot stitching " them together with silk to match, or with a lace insertion.
To Make the Border
The border can be made of the crepe de
Chine or ninon, or of soft silk or satin, and joined down each side of the scarf by
' faggot stitch," as shown in the illustration, or by lace insertion.
The silk or satin for the border should be cut on the cross - double the width it is to be when finished, plus turnings; i.e., if the border is to be 2 inches wide, the strips should be cut 5 inches.
A sufficient number of these strips must be cut for each side of the scarf, joined together, and the seams pressed open.
A scarf can be fashioned from a crepe de
Chine or ninon skirt, ornamented with
"faggot stitching" and tassels
Make and tack down a turning, half an inch wide, along each edge of the strip, then fold it in half lengthwise, right side out, and tack it together, the folded edges together and turnings inside.
N.B. - This long crossway fold requires to be most carefully folded and tacked, in order that it may set perfectly, otherwise it will twist and spoil the appearance of the scarf
As the ends of the scarf have to be joined on to make it long enough, it is more ornamental to make them of several shorter pieces, either all the same length or graduated, each one connected to the other by a row of "faggot stitching" or lace insertion, or the ends may be tucked across and the joins made in the tucking. When the border has been put on, the scarf must be gathered and drawn up at each end, and the tassels firmly sewn on. These can either be bought or made according to the instructions given for making tassels on page 1244, Vol. II of Every Woman's Encyclopaedia.
If the ends of the scarf are to be joined by "faggot stitch," take the length for the centre of it, and tack the hem at each end (right side uppermost), neatly and firmly on to a strip of paper three or four inches wide (newspaper will do). Take the pieces for the ends, and tack the hem at the end of each (right side uppermost) on to the same strips of paper, leaving a space of about 3/8 of an inch between the edge of the hems. N.b. This tacking must be done with small stitches, to secure the material firmly to the paper, otherwise it will "give" when the "faggot-stitch" is being worked, and cause the stitches to be unequal. The space between the hems must be exactly the same width all along, and the hems at the sides of the centre length, and the ends exactly even.
The "faggot stitch" can be done with silk to match, or of a contrasting colour; it must not be too fine or it will not look effective. Embroidery silk, filoselle, or buttonhole twist can be used, according to the material to be joined. If filoselle is chosen it can be used with as many or as few strands as desired.
The stitch will be described in the next lesson.