How to Make the Pockets - Machine-stitching the Seams - Adjustment of the Collar - "Facing" the Collar and Revers

The pieces of the coat can now be joined together. First take the piece for the back and the "side body" pieces, and pin, and then tack them together. Be careful to get them exactly even at the waist-line, and to tack both seams the same way, from the top downwards, leaving any difference there may be in the length at the bottom.

Next pin and then tack the "side pieces" in the same careful way.

When all the seams of the back have been tacked together, exactly through the lines of the "tailor-tacking," remove all the short threads from the seams (but not from the waist-lines).

The "fronts" and "side fronts" must next be joined together with the same care, matching the waist-lines, and tacking from the top downwards. Pin, and then tack the shoulder and under-arm seams together on the right side with the seams outwards, and try on the coat, right side out. All the turnings will, of course, be inside, except those of the shoulder and under-arms. Pin the coat quite evenly down the front, taking care that the waist-lines meet. If the coat is too tight across the chest (which is possible, having been cut from the tight bodice pattern), let it out in front at an equal distance from the front lines all the way down. Great care must, however, be taken in doing this not to get the "seam to shoulder" too far back. If this should occur, some of the extra width required across the chest must be given by letting out the coat at the under-arm seam.

N.B. - It is a good plan to pin the back of the coat firmly to the figure at the waist, to keep the panel at the back well drawn down when fitting.

Adjustment Of Waist-line

Next fit the back, and be very, careful to get the waist the right length; the coat will not be worn pinned to the waist, or always buttoned up; and when worn unbuttoned it will, of course, appear shorter-waisted at the back. This must therefore be taken into consideration when fitting the back. If the coat appears too short-waisted, lower it from the shoulders; if too long, raise it either from the front or back, or both if necessary. In fitting the shoulder, do not bring the seam too far forward, or it will make the back appear round, and be careful to keep the correct line of the shoulder, slightly hollowing the back, and rounding the front. The " seam to shoulder " of the back and front must exactly meet. When correctly fitted, take off the coat.

N.B. - Should the side body or side pieces not set smoothly, but "drag" across, the fault is that the coat is not correctly

"balanced." This can only be remedied by-unpicking the seams and correcting the waist-lines.

This preliminary fitting is only necessary for the amateur. An experienced worker would stitch and press all but the fitting seams of the coat, tack in the canvas, etc., and then try it oh.

After fitting the coat, make any corrections that are necessary, according to the instructions given in the lessons for the " Single-breasted Coat," in Vol. 2,' page 997. Machine-stitch all but the "fitting seams," using silk for both the upper and under thread; take out the tacking, notch all the seams well, especially at the waist, turn the coat to the right side, and neatly tack down the edge of the "seams to shoulder" of the back, holding both the turnings towards the centre-back, to give the seams the appearance of being "lapped."

Machine-Stitching: the Seams

Tack down the edge of the " seams to shoulder " of the fronts in the same way, holding both the turnings towards the centre-front. Work a row of machine-stitching down each of these four seams the same distance from the edge of the turning as the row of stitching down the left side of the skirt was done, as the stitching on the coat and skirt must match. Then damp and press all the seams well, on the wrong side, the turnings of the four "seams to shoulder " together, as they have been tacked and stitched, the turnings of the other seams must be pressed open.

The pockets must next be made in the fronts of the coat. Instructions for making circular pockets were given in Vol. 1, pages 524-5 and 641. When the pockets have been put in, the opening tacked together, and they have been well pressed, on the wrong side, the coat is ready for the canvas to be put in.

Pin, tack, and machine-stitch the " seams to shoulder " of the canvas, cut off the turning to within about an eighth of an inch from the stitching, open the seams and press them well. Pin, and then tack the canvas into the fronts of the coat, according to the instructions given in Vol. 2, pages 998-9. For putting the canvas into the "single-breasted coat," put on the bridle, pad the revers, turn in the front of the coat from the bottom of the revers, which in this reaches almost to the waist, see finished sketch, Vol. 3, page 1717. Put in the linen according to the instructions given in Vol. 2, pages 1065-6; the lihen for a double-breasted coat must, however, be rather wider than for a single-breasted one, in order that it may reach under the second row of buttons, so that the coat may be strengthened where they are sewn on.

Join the shoulder and under-arm seams of the fronts, to the back of the coat; the canvas must not be stitched in with the shoulder-seams, but turned back out of the way until the material has been stitched and pressed; be careful to make the notches which have been cut in the turnings match, and to match the waist-line. The " lapped seams " of the back and front must exactly meet at the shoulder. Damp and press the seams open.

The canvas must now be brought up over the seam of the shoulder, slit down in two places several inches in length, and tacked down to the turning of the shoulder-seam of the coat, as shown in the diagram, Vol. 2, page 1239. Now take the measure for the collar, which in this case, is " faced " in one piece with the revers. The collar must, therefore, be cut long enough to go right under the revers and leave no " break " between them.

When the correct measure has been taken (round the neck of the coat and well under the revers) for the collar, cut it out, make and press it according to the instructions given in the lesson in Vol. 1, pages 641-2. When the collar is ready to be put on, place the coat on a dress-stand, find the half of the collar, on the outer edge of the stand, and make a chalk mark; place this mark exactly on the centre-back of the neck of the coat, and pin on half the collar, bringing it well down under the revers, so as to leave no break between them.

Remove the coat from the stand, and make a chalk line on the coat, close to and all round the edge of the collar, and also mark (on the revers) along the end of the collar.

Remove all the pins and take off the collar, fold the coat in half, and place it on the table to correct the line just made round the half of the neck, and trace it through to the other half of the neck of the coat by "tailor tacking." Pin the whole of the collar on to the coat, commencing at the middle of the back and the centre of the collar, and placing it exactly to meet the line of " tailor tacking " all the way round the neck and under the revers.

Placing The Collar

Tack the collar on neatly and carefully, slightly " easing " it on to the coat, across the shoulder-seam. Fell it on very neatly round the neck, and along the two ends, with silk, and on the right side of the coat. Cut off all superfluous turnings from round the neck of the coat, graduating them so as to avoid any sudden thickness, and cut away as much of the turning as possible from the top of the revers, where it rests on the collar. All the raw edges must be herringboned down to the collar, so that they may lie as flat as possible.

Turn the collar up towards the neck, and, with a piece of tailor's chalk, mark on the under side any unevenness that may require cutting away on the outer edge, where the collar and revers meet, so as to obtain a perfect, curved line for the edge of the collar and revers, which should, when faced, appear to be cut in one piece.

To be continued.