One of the most suitable coats for a sports costume is a Norfolk. A certain amount of practical experience is necessary to carry out the making of it satisfactorily; but as the readers of Every Woman's Encyclopaedia have already had instructions given them for the cutting out, and the practical work of two different styles of "tailor made" coats, they should be able to accomplish a Norfolk successfully.
Six yards of tweed should suffice to make this coat and a suitable skirt. For the lining of the coat, three yards of double width, or five of single width, will be required, and two yards of French canvas will be necessary to interline the fronts and revers, collar, cuffs, and pleats, or " folds," on the coat, and half a yard of linen to strengthen the fronts under the buttons, buttonholes, and pockets, and, of course, twist to match, machine silk and buttons.
The Norfolk should be cut out exactly in the same way as the tight-fitting single-breasted coat, with seams to shoulder, given in Vol. 1, page 757. The basque shown in this illustration is about 10 inches below the waistline. Cut out the lining from the cloth, also the French canvas to interline the fronts. " Tailor tack" all the seams, " waist-line," fronts, etc., in the cloth, and the "centre-back seam " in the lining; this is for the pleat down the back, and is the only one that need be "tailor tacked" in the lining.
Tack, fit, and make the coat as already instructed. "-Face" the revers and fronts, work the buttonholes and sew on the buttons, but do not put in the lining or stitch the shoulder seams until the pleats, or ' folds," have been made and put on. Next make the folds. These are made and put on separately; and are usually about an inch and a half wide when finished. Cut six strips of canvas - on the straight-selvedgewise, one and a half inches wide, one long enough to cover the " centre-back seam," two long enough to cover the " seams to shoulder " in the back, two for the " front seams to shoulder," and one for the centre-front.
Norfolk coat with folds back ana front, waist-belt, and practical pockets
Cut six strips of cloth - on the straight, selvedgewise - corresponding in length with the canvas, but double the width - i.e., three inches wide. Place the strips of cloth on the table, wrong side uppermost, and a strip of canvas down the centre of each; turn the cloth over the canvas on each side, and tack it down perfectly evenly, close to the edge, being careful not to turn over the edges of the canvas.
The two raw edges of the cloth should just meet down the centre, but not overlap, and must be drawn together by long herringbone stitches, and care must be taken to keep the folds perfectly even, and exactly the same width from one end to the other.
Well press the folds and carefully tack them over the seams of the coat, following the slope of each, the centre of each fold exactly on the seam.
N.B. - The folds should always be made the same width all the way down - not narrower at the waist, as the amateur is apt to think is the correct way.
The folds of the fronts and of the backs must exactly meet at the shoulder seams. N.b. - The shoulder seam must have the same slope front and back, so that the edges of the fold may exactly meet, otherwise either the front or the back fold will have the appearance of being wider at the shoulder.
Stitch the folds on by hand from the wrong side of the coat, about a quarter of an inch from the edge. The stitches must, of course, not be taken through to the right side. The fold down the middle of the front must be sewn down one side only, about a quarter of an inch beyond the inner side of the buttonholes, so as to cover them, but to leave them free. This fold must be cut to shape at the top, so as to go under the revers.
The folds over the front '"seams to shoulder" should not be stitched to the coat at the waist; a space of about 2 or 2 1/2 inches z± and below the " waist-line" should be left open, through which to pass the belt.
Stitch the shoulder seam and press it; open, put on, and "face" the collar.
Make and put on "patch pockets" (see Vol. 1, page 524).
N.B. - As this coat is intended for hard wear, place a piece of linen, rather larger than the pocket, on the wrong side of the coat - between the material and the lining. The pocket must be stitched on through the linen. Place the coat on a stand and turn it up evenly - pleats and all - half-way round the bottom. Remove the coat and turn up the second half by the first; herringbone and well press the edge without stretching it, then put in the lining, as instructed in Vol. 2, page 1359. Make and put in the sleeves.
Norfolk with yoke, side folds in front, and one fold only at back. Patch pockets with flap complete this serviceable model. The back view shows how the yoke and fold are arranged
The waist-belt should be made the same width as the "folds" on the coat. It can be interlined with French canvas or cotton Petersham. Cut the cloth and the canvas on the straight, selvedgewise - the canvas without turnings; the cloth is cut the width of the finished band, plus half an inch turning on each side; this turning should be herringboned on each side to the canvas, and the belt then lined with a strip of the same lining as the coat, cut selvedgewise.
The belt may either be fastened with a buckle or invisibly with hooks and eyes; in this case, finish one end of the band in a point - the other straight - make a narrow fold of the cloth and put it across the belt, about two inches from the point.
Sew two hooks on the right or pointed end of the belt - under the loop - and two eyes to correspond on the straight end. Put the belt round the back of the coat over the folds, and through the space left under the folds, at the "seam to shoulder" of the fronts, and fasten it in position invisibly on each side of the folds.
Norfolk Coat with a Yoke
Commence by cutting a pattern for the yoke. To do this, place the shoulder seams of a well-fitting bodice pattern together on a sheet of paper folded double, with the centre-back of the pattern at the neck point touching the fold; outline the neck and armhole of the pattern, and cut out the yoke in one piece, to the depth and shape shown.
Unfold the paper pattern and place it on the material, selvedgewise, and near the cut edge, draw a chalk line round the edge of the pattern, and cut out the material, allowing turnings all round.
Place the piece just cut out on the lining, also selvedgewise, and cut it out the same size. Try on the yoke to ensure its being quite the correct shape, then turn in and tack the bottom edge of the back and front by the chalk line, and press the turning. The lower portion of the fronts of this coat can be cut in the same way as the one already described in this lesson, but only to reach to the yoke - plus turnings - and no extra width need be allowed in the front for the revers, as these are put on "false."
The back has a "centre-back seam," but no " seams to shoulder," therefore the half "back" and "side body piece" of the bodice pattern must be placed together and cut out in one piece.
N.B. - The back of a Norfolk is sometimes made without a fold down the centre, but with one on each side; in that case, there is no "centre-back seam"; the pattern of the half back is placed down a fold of double material and cut out so that the back is in one piece. Only three' " folds " will be required to be made for this coat, long enough to reach from the yoke to the bottom plus turnings. The "patch pockets" can be made and stitched on, as in the previous coat, and a flap made and stitched on to the coat, just above the pocket.
Instructions for making a "flap" are given in Vol. 1, page 380, but the size must, of course, depend upon the size of the pocket being made, and this flap must be stitched on to, and not into the coat, as for a " patch pocket " no hole is cut in the coat. A buttonhole can be worked in the centre of the flap, and a button, sewn on to the pockets. A small patch pocket can also be put on just below the yoke, if desired.
Place the yoke on a dress-stand and fix the lower part of the coat to it - after the "folds" have been put on.
Turn the coat up round the bottom, turn in and cut the yoke and the fronts to shape, allowing sufficient for a turning to stitch on the "false" revers.