The Popular River Hat - The Merits of Broderie Anglaise and Batiste - Choice of Wire Frame - How to Bind and Cover It - Fixing the Crown - The Finished Hat

For the river and seaside millinery must be practical and hard wearing, in addition to aiding a woman to appear at her best. The foundation of the hat must be able to withstand the posssible sea mist or river fog. Such ephemeral materials as feathers or tulle should be avoided, as well as velvet. All the charming and inexpensive ready-made straw shapes can be worn, but the en terprising amateur will naturally like to create a dainty novelty of her own. Always appropriate is the lingerie hat, and nothing is more charming for youth to wear when disporting itself on the river or wandering on the seashore.

A charming example of a river hat in broderie anglaise. This hat should be shady, and, though dainty and light, be capable of withstanding river mists or even slight rain

A charming example of a river hat in broderie anglaise. This hat should be shady, and, though dainty and light, be capable of withstanding river mists or even slight rain

Batiste or broderie anglaise compose many river and garden hats. Batiste in all colours costs about is. 0 3/4d. a yard, and covers the spartra frame in exactly the same manner as directed for the cloth or velvet shape (page 1000, Vol. 2, Every Woman's Encyclopedia).

The broderie anglaise hat is pretty and practical, very generally in fashion, and, with a little patience, it can be made easily at home. The price of a suitable broderie anglaise lace ranges from 8 3/4d. the yard. Such a hat is made upona wire frame, which can be bought ready made, or the instructions given on pages 1602 and 1713, Vol. 3, Every Woman's Encyclopedia will enable an amateur to make one for herself. Most drapers stock a selection of smart wire frames suitable for the river hat, a large shady pattern costing about a shilling.

Measure the edge wire, and buy exactly three inches more broderie anglaise beyond that amount (the three inches allows for turnings). So that if the edge wire measures 60 inches, purchase 1 3/4 yards or 63 inches of broderie anglaise.

To find the width of insertion required, measure the longest support-wire, which will probably be at the side, and allow one inch for neatening at the head, and two inches for forming frills over the brim. If the longest support measures 8 1/2 inches, a broderie insertion 11 1/2 inches wide will be required.

To make the crown, measure its bottom edge wire, and allow three inches for turning. Add this amount to the 1 3/4 yards of broderie anglaise first allowed for.

1. The wire foundation for a broderie hat

1. The wire foundation for a broderie hat. The wire supports should be bound round with tulle. 2. The length of broderie for the brim joined round, the two runners inserted, by which it can be drawn up to size of brim. 3. The broderie arranged on brim of wire shape, eased on at the runners to edge wire, and pleated up to the head wire. 4. The broderie for the crown joined up and gathered closely together at top. 5. The crown as it should appear when phced over crown wire ready for attachment to the brim

Buy a yard of white tulle, at 6 3/4d., cut it into small strips about 1 1/2 inches wide, and proceed to bind the supports of the brim. This is to make the wires neat underneath. Fig. I illustrates the manner in which the wires are bound over and over with the tulle, as well as indicating the appearance of the supports and edge wire when bound.

When all the supports have been bound, including the head and round wires, bind the edge wire very neatly; then the frame is ready for the broderie covering.

Cut off the length of broderie for the brim, and join into a round, on the wrong side, only, making a small turning.

To make the frill of the hat, measure-two inches upwards from the pattern edge of broderie, and make two runners close together all the way round as illustrated in Fig. 2. Use firm, coarse cotton, and leave an end to each runner, so that the broderie can be " eased on "to the hat brim.

Place the join at right side of the back of brim and pin all round, so that the fulness is arranged to fall evenly all round. The runners must come just on the edge wire, the two inches falling over the brim, as illustrated in the finished sketch and Fig. 3.

Pull the runners up to size of edge wire, and sew round on to the same. Next proceed to pleat the plain edge into the size of the head.

For the crown it is not necessary to bind the wires. If a dome crown has been selected, place the pattern of broderie, starting from right side back on to the edge wire of crown, and sew on, just turning it in neatly.

Draw the broderie up to the centre of crown, as illustrated in Fig. 4, and draw through the frame, cutting off any superfluous length; the crown will then appear as in Fig. 5, in which broderie is shown drawn through the crown, stitched, and completed.

Sew the crown on to the brim, placing front wire to the front, side to side, etc.

The hat complete is shown in the finished sketch, and is suited to most faces.

Very little trimming is required for a hat of this description. A twist of soft ribbon round the crown, with a few loops at one side, forms a pretty and suitable finish. The ribbon should match the shade of the gown if a coloured one be worn, or if the dress is white a pale shade of blue, pink, or green is charming.