Make a narrow turning round the top curve of the shaped piece for the neck, tack it neatly, and press it on the wrong side, being careful to keep the correct curve, and not to stretch it. Take a strip of the cross way silk, fold and tack it double, and run it neatly round the lower curve of the collar piece, with the raw edges level. Turn the silk down to edge the collar piece, and tack the turned-over edge of the alpaca neatly, making the silk piping exactly the same width all round. Press this edge carefully on the wrong side. Do not stretch it out of shape.
Tack this collar piece round the neck of the bodice, covering the raw edges, and allowing the silk piping to show exactly the same width round the neck as on the lower edge of the collar piece.
Place a row of machine - stitching (using silk to match) round each curve close to the edge of the alpaca, to attach the collar piece to the bodice.
N.B. - This piece will require neat and very careful tacking, or it will not set smoothly when stitched on.
To make the "revers," tack the pieces of silk smoothly on to a piece of linen, which must be cut the same size and the same way as the silk. Cut a strip of alpaca (on the cross will be best) about 3 inches wide, and run a folded strip of the silk along each edge on the right side of the alpaca. Turn the raw edges over to the wrong side, tack them down neatly, and press them. Make a half-inch turning along the top of the revers, tack it neatly, then tack on the strip of alpaca, and work a row of machine-stitching along each edge to match the collar piece. Make a half-inch turning down the other straight edge, tack it, and herringbone the raw edge to the linen.
Be careful to make both the revers exactly the same size, and the corners quite square, and to match. Next line the revers with a piece of the alpaca, cut the same way of the material as the silk and linen, turn it in, and fell it along the two straight edges. The edge of the sloped side (which is for the front) must be left raw.
Press the revers on the wrong side, place and tack them in position en the right side of the bodice, the raw edges level, and the top of the revers over the end of the collar piece.
The curve for waist is indicated by a cross
Stitch the revers to the fronts about half an inch from the raw edge, turn all the raw edges to the inside of the bodice, herringbone them down, then "face " them with a piece of lute ribbon. Gather the bodice to the required size .at the waist, making it long enough to cross in the front, and stitch on a band.
N.B. - This band must be single, as the knickers will be stitched on the other side of it. It can be made of alpaca, or a strip of strong silk, or lute ribbon.
Join one of the cross way strips into a circle to fit the trimming, press the seams open, fold and tack it double, then run it round one edge of the strip for the trimming, the seam to the seam. Do the same to the other edge, tack down the turnings, and machine-stitch round each side to match the collar piece and the revers. Tack it round the sleeve, the seam to the seam, and sew it on by hand invisibly, working the stitches over some of the machine-stitching, and not drawing the thread too tight. Trim the other sleeve in the same way.
Join each leg, by a French seam, from the bottom to the widest point, then join the two pieces from the seam to the top of the back, and from the seam to about 9 inches of the top of the front. Gather the bottom of the legs, and put them into kneebands. Make a false hem up each side of the opening of the front, place a narrow strip of linen or tape inside each hem to strengthen it, work a row of machine-stitching near the edge, and sew on press fasteners.
Gather the knickers round the top, and stitch them on to the lower edge of the band on the bodice, line the band, and sew on hooks and eyes.
N.B. - The centre-back seam of the knickers must be fixed to the centre-back of the bodice, and the centre-front opening to the centre-front, not to the end of the band, as that crosses over to the side.
To Make the Skirt (See page 24s?)
Join up the centre-back by a French seam, then make a hem one inch wide down each side and round the bottom. Make an inch hem down each side of the front and across the bottom, machine-stitch the hems on both pieces, press them and the seam.
Place the hem at the top of the right side of the front over the hem on the side of the back (the bottom edges perfectly level) and tack and invisibly sew the two pieces together to about half-way down the skirt, where the skirt must be gradually allowed to open, so that the two pieces are separated in the lower half as shown in the finished sketch. Gather the skirt at the waist all but the front, and put it into a band fastening on the left side of the front. Sew press fasteners down the left side of the front, so that it may lap over, and match the right side. Cover the button moulds or linen buttons with the silk, sew them on as in the sketch, and make the silk waistband. This must be separate, so that the costume can be worn with or without the skirt.
If the bathing dress is to be worn without the skirt, the silk waistband need not be a separate one, as the bodice and knickers can be put into it.