The Necessary Measures to Take - How to Shorten a Sleeve - To Make a Sleeve Pattern

Narrower - Alteration of a Bodice Pattern

To Shorten a Sleeve Pattern from the Top - at the

Back Only

Take the correct measurements of the arm to ascertain whether the pattern is too long from the top to the elbow, or from the elbow to the wrist, or both. To take these measurements, raise the arm to the position shown in Diagram I, and measure from the centre of the back to the elbow, then on to the wrist. Deduct the half width of back, and write down both these measurements. Next take the inside length of arm, as instructed in the previous lesson (page 4326, vol. 6). Place the larger piece of the sleeve pattern on the table, and make a mark at the elbow joint. From it measure to the top, and, if the pattern is too long there, make a mark at the correct arm measurement, and draw a line round the pattern, shown by the dotted line in Diagram 2. Measure and mark the correct arm measurement from the elbow to the top of the pattern, and from the elbow to the wrist, and in the same way mark the correct inside length of arm measure, as shown by the dotted lines round the top and at the wrist in Diagram 3.

Diagram 1. To ascertain if sleeve pattern is too long from top to elbow, measure with arm in position as shown in this diagram

Diagram 1. To ascertain if sleeve pattern is too long from top to elbow, measure with arm in position as shown in this diagram

To Shorten a Sleeve Pattern at the Top, at the Bottom, and at the Under-arm

Diagram 2. If sleeve is too long, make a mark at correct measurement and draw a line round top as indicated by dotted line. The arrow indicates the elbow

Diagram 2. If sleeve is too long, make a mark at correct measurement and draw a line round top as indicated by dotted line. The arrow indicates the elbow

The under-arm piece must be measured and marked in the same way (see Diagram 4). To Make a Sleeve Pattern Narrower

The reduction in width must be measured and marked on the back of the sleeve. The front must not be altered, but the under-arm

Diagram 3. The dotted lines show how a sleeve may be shortened at the top and bottom, the arrow indicating the elbow piece can also be altered at the back, if desired (see Diagrams 3 and 4).

Diagram 3. The dotted lines show how a sleeve may be shortened at the top and bottom, the arrow indicating the elbow piece can also be altered at the back, if desired (see Diagrams 3 and 4). If the pattern is to be reduced in width at the top only, it must be done from the elbow upwards (see Diagram 5, which also shows the pattern made wider at the top). In this case the under-arm will need no alteration.

When the corrected lines have been drawn on the pattern (to reduce the size of it), place it on a piece of paper, and wheel through the corrected lines and along the outline of the pattern with a tracing wheel. Remove the pattern, and cut out the new one. In this way the original is not destroyed. If the sleeve pattern is too small, place it on a larger piece of paper and outline the pattern on it. Then measure and mark the extra length or width, or both, as required, and draw fresh lines by these marks, following the shape of the pattern. Remember that the front must not be altered of either piece.

To Alter A Bodice Pattern

If the pattern is too long in the back, place the half back, side body, and side

Diagram 4. The under arm piece measured and marked in the same way piece together, as shown in Diagram 6. From the waist measure up the centre-back, and make a mark at the required length

To Alter A Bodice Pattern 70045Diagram 5. When a sleeve is to be reduced in width at the top only, it must be done from the elbow upwards, or it can be widened as shown by dotted lines of back (No. 3 of the bodice measures given in the previous lesson, page 3949, vol. 6).

Diagram 5. When a sleeve is to be reduced in width at the top only, it must be done from the elbow upwards, or it can be widened as shown by dotted lines of back (No. 3 of the bodice measures given in the previous lesson, page 3949, vol. 6).

From the waist measure up the side piece, and make a mark at half the corrected length of back, and draw a line on the pattern (see dotted line on Diagram 6).

When the corrected lines have been drawn on the pattern (to reduce the size of it), place it on a piece of paper, and wheel through the corrected lines and along the outline of the pattern with a tracing wheel. Remove the pattern, and cut out the new one.

If the back is too short, place the pieces of the pattern on a larger piece of paper, measure and mark the extra length required at the back and at the under-arm, and draw a line by these marks, following the shape of the pattern (see Diagram 7). Outline the remainder of the pattern, and cut out the pieces of the new one.

N.B. - The three pieces of the half back can either be cut out separately, as in Diagram 6, or placed with the edges of the pieces meeting and cut out in one (see Diagram 7).

If the pattern is too long in front, place the two pieces together, and from the waist measure and mark the correct length of the manner in which a bodice pattern can be made smaller it can be lengthened as indicated by the dotted lines front (No. 6 of the bodice measures) and draw a line round the neck and down the shoulder, as shown by the dotted line in Diagram 8.

From the waist measure up the under - arm, and place a mark at the required length (to correspond with the back), and draw a curve round armhole (see dotted line in Diagram 8).

Diagram 6. The dotted lines shew

Diagram 6. The dotted lines shew

Diagram 7. If the back is too short

Diagram 7. If the back is too short

Place the front on a piece of paper, and wheel through the corrected lines and along the remainder of the outline, and cut out. the new pattern.

If the front is too small, place the two pieces together (Diagram 9) on a larger piece of paper, measure and mark the extra length or width, or both, required, and draw fresh lines by these marks, following the shape of the pattern (see Diagram 9). Outline the remainder of the pattern, and cut out the new one.

The pieces can be cut out separately, as in Diagram 8, or in one piece (Diagram 9). N.b. - In cutting out the material and lining turnings must be allowed for everywhere.

Diagram 8. When a pattern is too long in front, shorten as shown by dotted lines in this diagram

Diagram 8. When a pattern is too long in front, shorten as shown by dotted lines in this diagram

Diagram 9. When the front is too small, place the two pieces together and mark the extra width and length re quired as indicated on the diagram

Diagram 9. When the front is too small, place the two pieces together and mark the extra width and length re quired as indicated on the diagram