In Pliny's time, when asparagus grew wild, it may not have been considered as great a delicacy as now; and one does not learn of the variations of serving that it was treated to then; but now, in the high places where one is miles from a little neck or an oyster, this is a substitute that may well begin a dinner - it's especially inviting after a lone-tree cocktail. Have some boiled asparagus tips nicely cooled and served on shaved ice with a dressing of lemon juice, horseradish, salt, and pepper; and don't forget to pass the Tabasco. You'll be surprised at the appeal this tidbit makes to you.