The Marquis de Massa really does invent dishes. Recently he gave to the world a delicious morsel in a piquant dish of quails that he has wished to bear the name of a Capus. The quails are " poached ' in a saucepan, which means " completely cooked at slow ebullition," together with a good quantity of Muscatel grapes that are yet green. When nearly done a finishing touch is added in a Madeira wine - only a little, remember - but ah! what fascination!

There is a " school " of latter-day epicures in Paris to which the great chefs cater, and the result is in " Lobster Alexander," the " John Osy Zegwoart veal," " Poulet a la Dr. Pendergast," the fish vol-au-vent Stanhope, and Lowther, Rathbone, Tuck, J. W. Mackey, and General Williams eggs - all named by one Frederick, the only impressionist chef in Paris, whose specialties are sky-blue sauces, purple stuffings, and nile-green potages - and the naming of his culinary masterpieces after favorite customers - the rich Parisian wine merchants from Bercy, and the Americans.