Broiling, from bruler, meaning " to burn," is cooking directly over the hot coals. It is the hottest form of cooking. The heat is so intense that the food would he quickly burned if allowed to remain continuously over the fire. We avoid burning by turning it frequently. This rapid cooking by such direct, intense heat combined with the action of the air, which has free access to the meat, gives a flavor quite unlike that obtained by cooking meat in water.

It is only certain kinds of meat that are suitable for broiling. A pound of beef cut in cubical form could not be cooked inside sufficiently without burning the outside. But the same weight of beef, if cut in the form of a slice about an inch thick, could be broiled perfectly, and would have a better flavor than when cooked in any other way.

Meat for broiling should have tender fibres, much juice, and but little fat, bone, or gristle. There is neither time nor moisture to soften tough fibres, and we learned in the first lesson on meat that water, and slow, long-continued heat are necessary to cook tough meat. If there be much fat it will melt, drip into the fire, and smoke the meat. Slices, cut from three fourths of an inch to an inch and a quarter in thickness, and taken from the thick part of the round, the rump, and the sirloin, are the best for broiling. The tender parts of mutton may be broiled, but not veal and pork, for these need to be very thoroughly cooked. Very small chickens, some kinds of game and birds, tripe and liver, thin slices of ham and bacon, any small, thin fish, and oysters are also cooked by broiling.

The fire for broiling should be bright-red, but not blazing, and should be near the top of the fire-box. It should be made ready some time before it is needed that it may be in the proper condition at the last moment. There should be little or no flame, as that will smoke the meat. The oven damper should always be open during the broiling, that the smoke of the dripping fat, and the poisonous gases may be carried into the chimney. A bed of hard-wood coals is the best fire for broiling. Next to this is a charcoal fire. Wood gives an entirely different flavor to steak from that obtained by a coal fire. Some stoves for burning wood have a hearth in front into which the bright coals may be drawn for the cooking of the steak.

There is nothing better to use for broiling than a double wire broiler. Grease it with a bit of fat from the meat, or with salt pork, to keep the meat from sticking. Place the thickest part of whatever is to be cooked next to the middle of the broiler. If there is a fat edge on the steak, place this uppermost. Then, as the fat melts, it drips down over the meat, and by thus basting it keeps it from becoming too dry. Hold the broiler slanting down into the fire, and if there is a blaze do not lift the broiler up into the smoke, but keep it in the flame, turning it often. Use a coarse towel to protect the hand if the heat be very great.

In every form of cooking meat, where the meat itself is to be eaten, we want to keep the juices in the meat; and this is especially important in broiling, for if not retained in the meat they drip into the fire. Do not salt the meat, as salt draws out the juices. Remove the bone and part of the fat. Place the meat close to the fire. The intense heat instantly sears the albumen and fibrin on that side, and starts the flow of the juices; as they become hot they rise; and if the meat be cooked long on one side they will force their way through the fibres, and form little pools on the surface of the meat, which run off and drip into the fire, and so we feed the fire with the best part of the meat. But if we turn the meat before the juices ooze out, this other surface is brought next to the fire and seared, and the juices cannot escape in that direction, so they rise again and try to get through the top. But that being already hardened they have to stay inside the meat. As the water of the juices is converted into steam by the heat, it expands and gives the meat a puffy appearance. If the meat be not turned often, or the broiling be carried on too long, these watery juices will gradually ooze between the fibres to the surface and be evaporated, leaving the meat dry, leathery, and indigestible.

Meat should be broiled only long enough to loosen all the fibres and start the flow of the juices. As long as there is juice inside, the steam will cause the meat to spring up instantly when pressed with a knife, and when it ceases to do this the juices have begun to evaporate, and the meat shrinks. When cooked it should be pink and juicy, not raw and purple, nor brown and dry. It should be so full of juice that when cut on the platter no other gravy will be required than its own hot savory juices.

Broiled food should be served very hot. All other dishes should be prepared first, the platter hot and the seasoning ready. Have a long shallow pan near to hold under the broiler when you remove it from the fire, and thus avoid dropping the grease on the floor. When everything else is ready, begin to broil, and do not leave the broiler an instant until the meat is cooked. Turn the broiler over every ten seconds, counting as the clock ticks, and always keep the broiler over the fire while turning, and not off over the stove or floor. If there be much fat, lift the broiler over the pan while turning, and let the fat drip into the pan. The burning fat will not smoke the meat if the meat be kept close to the coals, but if held on the top of the flame it will soon be smoked. After the first thorough searing hold the broiler farther from the fire. When the meat is done, rest the broiler on the pan; take the meat off carefully, without sticking the fork into it, and put it on the hot platter. Season with salt and, if desired, with butter and pepper, but it is much nicer with only salt. Wipe the edge of the platter before sending it to the table.