Nearly all parts of an animal may be used as food, but from some parts we can obtain the nutriment in only one way. These are the bones and the gristle, tendons, and other gelatinous portions, some kinds of fat, and the lean meat which is tough and coarse in texture, or difficult to separate from the gristle and cord imbedded in it. Many people consider these portions undesirable, and dealers often have to dispose of them as refuse. But when cooked slowly in water at a moderate heat a large part of their nutriment is dissolved in the water, and may be used in this liquid form. The bony portions in roasted or baked meat are deemed even more undesirable, and are often thrown away as unfit for food. But even if previously cooked, some nutriment may be obtained from them, and they should always be saved and used in soups.

These parts of meat are very cheap, and every family should know how to utilize them. It is better to cook a large quantity at a time, as considerable time is required to extract all the nutriment; and the broth, when obtained, may be kept a week or more.

This liquid in which the meat has been cooked, and which contains all the juices and soluble parts, is used in making soup; and because it can be stored or kept on hand and drawn upon when needed, it is called stock. Stock is from the word stician, " to stick, or stay by." In making soup our object is to draw the nutriment from the meat and bones into the water. So we cut them into small pieces, and soak in cold water before heating, that we may soften and loosen the fibres and extract all the nutriment that is soluble. Some careless cooks soak the meat to cleanse it and then throw the water away. It should be cleansed by wiping with a damp cloth. We may use all kinds of meat, - beef, veal, mutton, or poultry. - either together or separately. As each kind of meat has its distinctive flavor, we may have a greater variety of soups by using them Separately. A very good soup may be made from a mixture of all the bones and fragments of meat which we may happen to have. But to make the most nutritious and palatable soup we need both cooked and uncooked meat, also bone, gelatine, fat, and a variety of seasoning material

The salts found in the blood and juices of uncooked -flesh are valuable as food: therefore a small portion of raw, lean meat is essential in making soup. Browned or roasted meat improves the flavor of the broth, because in such meats the flavor has been more highly developed. The marrow found in the shin bone, and the browned fat of cooked meats give a fine flavor; and such portions as contain gelatine afford a certain amount of nutriment, and by hardening like jelly when the stock is cold, enable us to keep it longer than if it were in a liquid form. Vegetables which have been cut fine, sweet herbs, spices, etc., are used to season and flavor the stock

When the juices are drawn out and the water is red, we draw the kettle forward where the water will almost boil,- just bubble on one side of the kettle. This gentle heat, continued steadily and for a long time, will dissolve the gelatinous portions. The water must bubble slightly, for if the temperature be allowed to fall too low the soup will sour.

The kettle should be closely covered to keep in the steam and the savory odors which would be wasted by evaporation if it were uncovered. It is wasteful to skim soup stock. The scum that rises as the water heats contains some of the very substances we have been trying to get into the water. They increase the flavor of the stock, and should be retained. After a time they settle as sediment, and all the sediment that is fine enough to go through the strainer should be used. In clear soups it may be removed by clearing, but clear soups are not the most nutritious.

After simmering several hours, or until the bones are clean and the meat is in shreds, strain the stock, and throw away the scraps. This worthless residue of muscular fibre, bones, etc., is dry, tasteless, and useless as food. When we need the fibrin from meat, it is better to cook the meat in other ways, as in stews, which are often called soups, but are different, as we shall learn later. Remember, we are not to depend upon soup as a complete food, only as one of a variety of foods, - a sort of stimulant to prepare the stomach for more hearty food.

The stock will keep better if the fat be not removed, as when cold it forms an air-tight covering over the stock. As the fat is more easilv removed when cold, it is best to make the stock the day before it is needed, and to strain it into several small jars, that such a portion as may be required may be used without disturbing the remainder.

When you are ready to use this stock for soup, take off every particle of the fat, and save it for clarifying-. Heat the portion of stock to the boiling-point, and serve it alone, or put with it any vegetable, rice, macaroni, barley, tapioca, etc., which has been previously cooked till tender.

A general rale for stock: equal parts by weight of meat and bone, and one quart of water to every pound of meat and bone. Where there is more bone than meat, or only cooked meat, water enough to cover is a good proportion. For every quart of water use

1 even tsp. salt. 1 tsp. mixed sweet herbs.

4 peppercorns. 1 tbsp. each vegetable cut

4 whole cloves. fine.

If allspice, mace, and celery seed be used, less of each spice will be required. The herbs are whole thyme, marjoram, summer savory, and bay leaves. Strip off the leaves and blossoms, break the small stalks in tiny pieces, mix them, and keep them in a tin box. Use a teaspoonful of the mixture, not of each herb. The vegetables generally used are onion, carrot, turnip, celery, and parsley. If you have only two kinds, use more of each. They are only intended to give additional flavor to the broth. When it is desired to eat them with the soup they should be cooked separately, and added to the soup just before serving.

There are some kinds of soup in which portions of the meat are served with the broth. These are made from chicken, veal, ox-tails, calf's head, etc. The meat is not cut as small as when it is to be used for stock. As soon as it is tender it is removed, and then raided to the strained stock just before serving.

Soups made from light meats, like veal and chicken, and from fish, are often made richer by the addition of milk or cream.

Soups are also made from the water in which some vegetables have been boiled, and thickened with the pulp of the vegetables, mashed fine and sifted. Milk or cream is added to improve the flavor and make them more nutritious. The liquid and vegetable pulp should be blended with a little flour, or other starchy thickening, to keep them from separating. Celery, tomatoes, green peas, green corn, carrot, and parsnip may be used for soup in the same general way as the potatoes.

Suggestion to the Teacher.

For farther information about soups, with and without stock, see " Boston Cook Book," pages 119-158.