This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Mix in a bowl eight ounces of sifted flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a little salt, four eggs and two gills of milk; stir all well together to obtain a smooth paste. Beat one teaspoonful of flour with as much baking powder, add it to the other ingredients and when well mingled, cook and finish them the same as buckwheat cakes (No. 3272), serving them very hot.
Lay a pound of brioche paste (No. 130) in a vessel, place it in the ice-box, working it from time to time to give it plenty of body; when this is firm put it on a floured table and divide it in two parts; draw them lengthwise to form into strings and cut each of these into fifteen even pieces; form all of them into balls and shape them like rolls three and a half inches long; range on a baking sheet slightly apart, leave to rise in a mild temperature and when double their volume egg over and bake in a good oven. Just when serving open them on one side and insert a little good, slightly salted butter. Send to the table very hot.
Put two quarts of water into a saucepan; add a coffeespoonful of salt and set it on the fire: at the first boil drop in three-quarters of a pound of oatmeal, letting it fall like rain, and being careful to stir continuously with a spatula, bearing it down on the bottom of the saucepan. Remove at the first boil to the side of the range, and let it continue to bubble for twenty-five minutes, stirring it at frequent intervals with the spatula. Serve with fresh sweet cream.
Wheaten grits are cooked in the same manner and in the same proportions as the oatmeal. Serve with fresh sweet cream.
Hominy is prepared exactly the same, using the same proportions as the oatmeal, but it only requires twenty minutes' cooking. Serve fresh sweet cream at the same time.
Arrange one pound of sifted flour in a circle on the table; in the center lay two ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, a well-crushed piece of carbonate of ammonia the size of a hazel-nut, a pinch of salt and eight whole eggs; mix all well together, obtaining a very smooth paste, but not too firm, working it so that it attains considerable body. Flatten this paste to an inch and a half in thickness with the rolling-pin, lay it on a floured tin sheet and leave to rest for two or three hours in a cool spot. Invert this paste on a lightly floured table and cut it into pieces; roll each of these to form a string an inch and a half in diameter, then divide into three-quarter-inch lengths. Lay these cakes on their cut end on a round floured pan cover; boil water in a vessel larger than this cover; at the first boil take the water from the fire, invert the cover over and pour boiling water on this to detach the pieces of paste; return the vessel to the fire without letting the water boil, and shake it about.
As soon as the pieces of paste rise to the surface remove them with a skimmer and throw into a pan of fresh water, leaving them in for twelve hours, changing the water every four hours; then drain, range then at some distance apart in hermetically closed hinged baking sheets, and bake in a hot oven for twenty to twenty-five minutes.
Slices of bread cut from square American loaves, about three and a half inches in size by three-eighths in thickness, laid on a double broiler and toasted over a low fire, then arranged on a hot plate.
After the bread is toasted spread one side over with butter.
Dipped in Wider. Milk or Cream. - Toast the bread, then lay the slices in a deep dish and moisten sufficiently to cover the bread with hot water, this being called dipped toast; or else with hot milk, making milk toast; or hot cream, this being called cream toast.