We have little to add here to the remarks which will be found at the commencement of the preceding Chapter, as they will apply equally to the preparation of these and of boiled puddings.
All of the custard kind, whether made of eggs and milk only, or of sago, arrow-root, rice, ground or in grain, vermicelli, etc., require a very gentle oven, and are spoiled by last-baking. Those made of batter, on the contrary, should be put into one sufficiently brisk to raise them quickly, but without scorching them. Such as contain suet and raisins must have a well-heated, but not a fierce oven; for as they must remain long in it to be thoroughly done, unless carefully managed, they will either be much too highly coloured, or too dry.
By whisking to a solid froth the whites of the eggs used for any pudding, and stirring them softly into it at the instant of placing it in the oven, it will be rendered exceedingly light, and will rise very high in the dish; but as it will partake then of the nature of a souffle, it must be despatched with great expedition to table from the oven, or it will become flat before it is served.
When a pudding is sufficiently browned on the surface (that is to say, of a fine equal amber-colour) before it is baked through, a sheet of writing paper should be laid over it, but not before it is set: when quite firm in the centre, it will be done.
Potato, batter, plum, and every other kind of pudding indeed, which is sufficiently solid to allow of it, should be turned reversed on to a clean hot dish from the one in which it is baked, and strewed with sifted sugar, before it is sent to table.
Minute directions for the preparation and management of each particular variety of pudding will be found in the receipt for it.
Slice into a well-buttered tart-dish three penny sponge cakes, and place on them a couple of ounces of candied orange or lemon-peel cut in strips. Whisk thoroughly six eggs, and stir to them boiling a pint and a quarter of new milk, in which three ounces of sugar have been dissolved; grate in the rind of a small lemon, and when they are somewhat cooled, add half a wineglassful of brandy; while still warm, pour the mixture on to the cakes, and let it remain an hour; then strain an ounce and a half of clarified butter over the top, sift or strew pounded sugar rather thickly on it, and bake the pudding for half an hour in a moderate oven.
Sponge cakes, 3; candied peel, 2 ozs.; eggs, 6; new milk, 1 1/4 pint; sugar, 3 ozs.; lemon-rind, 1; brandy, 1/2 glass; butter, 1 oz.; sifted sugar, 1 1/2 oz.: 1/2 hour.
Mix with half a pound of potatoes very smoothly mashed, three quarters of a pound of mincer heat, the grated rind of half a lemon, a dessertspoonful of sugar, and four large, or five small eggs; pour the whole into a well-buttered dish, and put over the top clarified butter and sugar, as in the preceding receipt. Bake the pudding for a full hour and twenty minutes.
Potatoes, 1/2 lb.; mincemeat, 3/4 lb.; rind of lemon, 1/2; sugar, 1 dessertspoonful; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small: 1 hour 20 minutes.
Mix with a quarter of a pound of mashed potatoes, half a pound of good boiling apples minced, four ounces of brown sugar, four small eggs well beaten and strained, and a little grated lemon-peel or nutmeg. Increase the ingredients one half, and add two ounces of butter, should a larger and better pudding be desired: about half an hour will bake it.
Potatoes mashed, 4 ozs.; apples, 8 ozs.; sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs, 4: 1/2 hour.
Lay into a tart-dish a border of puff-paste, and a pint and a half of freshly-gathered raspberries, well mixed with three ounces of sugar Whisk thoroughly six large eggs with three ounces more of sugar, and pour it over the fruit: bake the pudding from twenty-five to thirty minutes in a moderate oven.
Break the eggs one at a time into a cup, and with the point of a small three-pronged fork take off the specks or germs, before they are beaten, as we have directed in page 269.
Raspberries, 1 1/2 pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; eggs, 6: 25 to 30 minutes.