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Braizes, Poeles, Mirepoix, Etc. Continued |
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Free Books / Cooking / The Modern Cook / | |
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Braizes, Poeles, Mirepoix, Etc. Continued |
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This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
Cut into slices, and put into a stewpan, four carrots, the same number of onions, and two heads of celery, to which add parsley, four bay-leaves, thyme and sweet basil, a dozen cloves, a few blades of mace, two cloves of garlic, and one pound of raw ham (cut into small square pieces), a tablespoonful of peppercorns, and half a pound of butter. Stir these ingredients together over the fire until they become lightly browned; then pour over them a quart of French white wine vinegar, and let the marinade boil quickly for five minutes, then add two quarts of common stock; allow the whole to boil gently for one hour ; strain it off through a tammy-cloth (using considerable pressure), into a kitchen pan, and reserve it for use.
This marinade is used for the purpose of preserving larded beef, mutton, venison, or roebuck, as well as to braize either of these in, when it is wished to dress them a la Ghevreuil or roebuck fashion.
Take a large earthen vessel capable of containing whatever joint is intended to be marinaded or pickled ; then cut into very thin slices or shreds, four carrots and as many onions ; add to these, cloves, mace, peppercorns, thyme, bay-leaves and basil, and a handful of salt; after having mixed all these together, pour in, according to the quantity of marinade that may be required, cold spring water and vinegar in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter; keep the pan (containing the marinade) covered with its lid in a cool place, for the purpose of pickling therein, joints of red deer, roebuck, mountain hares, fillets of mutton or beef, etc.
In Scotland, this sort of marinade will prove very serviceable, especially if cooking for a shooting-party, and when the larders are well supplied with moor and Highland game.
Chop one pound (more or less, as occasion may require) of beef suet, and the same quantity of fat bacon; put these into a stewpan together with a garnished* fagot of parsley, a couple of carrots and onions, inserting four cloves into one of the latter; add the pulp of two lemons, a teaspoonful of whole pepper, and a little salt, place the stewpan on the stove-fire for about ten minutes, carefully stirring the ingredients the whole time, in order to prevent them from acquiring a brown color; then pour in a sufficient proportion of water to produce the quantity of blanc required. Allow the blanc to boil one hour, then strain it through a hair-sieve, and use it for the purpose intended.
* A garnished fagot of parsley, consists of a handful of parsley, half a dozen green onions, and a bay-leaf and sprig of thyme tied together neatly with twine.
Take two pounds of veal, one pound of fat bacon, and one pound of lean ham, four carrots, four onions, a pottle of mushrooms, six shalots, a clove of garlic, two bay-leaves, some sprigs of thyme, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a teaspoonful of peppercorns; cut these ingredients up into small square pieces, and put them into a stewpan with half a pound of butter, and fry them brown; then add a bottle of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of good broth; boil the mirepoix by the side of a stove-fire for about an hour and a half, and then strain it through a tammy (with considerable pressure, to extract all the goodness) into a basin, to be kept for such purposes as will be hereafter directed.
Take some fresh butter - say one pound, put it into a stewpan on a moderate fire to .clarify; skim it, and then pour it off into a thick-bottomed stewpan, care being taken that none of the milk be allowed to mix with the butter. Fill the butter up with sifted flour in sufficient quantity to form a paste requiring some strength to work it with a wooden spoon; the roux should then be placed on a moderate fire, and continually stirred with the spoon until it becomes somewhat softer; then take the spoon out, wipe the sides of the stewpan, put the lid on it, and place it in a moderately-heated oven, and there let it remain for about three-quarters of an hour - taking care to stirit even-ten minutes, and to watch it closely, in order to prevent the possibility of its getting burnt or colored, an accident which would render it use-less for white sauce. At the expiration of the time above-named, or before, if the roux be sufficiently done, (which may easily be ascertained by its becoming thinner), it should be taken out of the oven, and put aside until wanted for use.
This roux is used for thickening Veloute or white sauce.
This is made exactly in the same way as the white roux with the exception that it should remain longer in the oven, to allow it to acquire a fawn or buff color, before it is taken out. When the roux is considered to be done, three or four shalots should be thrown in, in order to diminish the action of the heat of the copper stewpan on its contents, and for the purpose of imparting flavor to it.
This roux is used to thicken Espagnole or brown sauce.
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