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Free Books / Cooking / The Modern Cook / | ![]() |
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Broths And Consommes In General, For Soups, Etc. Part 3 |
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This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
The same process is to be followed in making this consomme, as the foregoing, substituting, of course, game for poultry.
This consomme, after being partially reduced to glaze, is used for the purpose of imparting the flavor of game to any white sauce, such as Supreme, Allemande, Bechamel* Veloute, or white Italian sauce. It is also useful for mixing white purees of game.
After having filleted the larks or quails, and removed the gizzards from the trail of the larks, put a stewpan on the fire with an ounce of fresh butter in it; when the butter begins to fritter, put the bones or carcasses of larks or quails into the stewpan and fry them brown. Then add half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two shalots, and two glasses of sherry or Madeira. Let these simmer gently for five minutes, after which add one quart of common broth. Allow the extract to boil slowly by the side of the fire for three quarters of an hour, pass it through a lawn sieve into a basin, and reserve it for working the sauces intended for gratins of quails or larks, and also for fumet sauces for pates-chauds of either of the forementioned small birds.
* So called after the celebrated cook Bechamel, who lived in the reign of Louis XIV.
Extract of woodcocks or snipes is obtained in a similar manner.
This is made by putting the bones or carcasses of either into a stew-pan with two or three glasses of any sort of white wine, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and two shalots; and then submitting it to the action of a rather slow fire, until the liquid becomes reduced to a glaze, when a quart to three pints of common broth should be added. Put it on a brisk fire to boil, skim it well, and then put it by the side of the stove to simmer gently for an hour and a half; after which time pass it through a napkin into a basin, and keep it for use as occasion may require.
Spread the bottom of a middle-sized stewpan with butter, and cover it with thin slices of beef suet; place some slices of onions over this, and then add six pounds of gravy-beef cut into thick slices, and any trimmings of meat there may be to spare; moisten with a quart of common broth, and set the stewpan over a brisk stove-fire to boil. When the broth is reduced to glaze, slacken the heat of the stove, by partially smothering it with ashes, and allow the gravy to acquire a deep red brown color; then, fill the stewpan up with common broth or water, garnish with two carrots, two heads of celery, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a few peppercorns, and, if the gravy has been filled up with water, add a spoonful of salt. Put the gravy to boil on the stove-fire, skim it thoroughly, then remove it to the side to continue gently boiling for about three hours; next, strain it through a broth-cloth into another stewpan, and proceed immediately to clarify it, in the following manner : whisk up three whites of eggs with a little spring water, and, after having removed all the grease from the surface of the gravy, incorporate the whites of eggs in with it; whisk it over the stove-fire until it is nearly boiling, and then set it to simmer by the side for a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a broth-cloth into a basin for use.
Having first well buttered a large stewpan, lay therein one pound of the lean of a York ham cut in slices, a knuckle of veal, and the under part of a leg of veal; to these add an old hen and a couple of wild rabbits. Pour three pints of common broth over the meat, etc, and after putting the cover on the stewpan, place it on the stove-fire to boil down to a glaze; then slacken the heat so that it may gradually become browned. When the glaze darkens to a deep red tinge, fill it up with common broth or water, and set it on the stove; as soon as it boils, skim it thoroughly, garnish with carrots, turnips, onions, celery, three cloves, and a blade of mace; and after it has boiled gently by the side of the stove-fire for three hours, strain it through a napkin into basins for use.
This consomme is used for clearing and working the grand Espagnole sauce, for coloring clear soups, and also for finishing some of the special sauces.
 
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