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Free Books / Cooking / The Modern Cook / | ![]() |
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Ragouts And Garnishes. Part 2 |
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This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
Prepare some scollops of fat livers and truffles, as for the foregoing ragout; to these add some small quenelles, cocks'combs and kernels, and some button mushrooms; then add a ladleful of Perigueux sauce (No. 23), and boil the whole together for two or three minutes.
Peel and blanch half a pint of button onions, fry them of a light-brown color over a slow fire; when done, drain them on to a sieve, in order to free them from the butter, and place them in a bain-mane with an equal quantity of white button mushrooms, crayfish tails, and small quenelles of whiting; to these add a ladleful of Matelotte sauce (No. 31), and after allowing the ragout to boil for two or three minutes, use it for garnishing the Matelotte, or any other dressed colored fish it is intended for.
Prepare thirty crayfish tails, and place them in a stewpan with about half a pint of muscles, three dozen of parboiled oysters, and an equal proportion of white button mushrooms; to these add a ladleful of Matelotte Normande sauce (No. 32), allow the whole to boil up a minute or two on the stove, and use the ragout to garnish soles or other fish for which it is prepared.
Peel and blanch half a pint of small button onions, put them into a stewpan with a lump of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and a pat of butter, moisten with half a pint of good broth, and set the onions to stew gently on a moderate fire; when nearly done, boil them down to a glaze, and add them to an equal quantity of white button mushrooms and very small quenelles; to these put sufficient Bourguignotte sauce (No. 28) for the purpose required; allow the ragout to boil up on the stove-fire for a minute or two, and use it to garnish the entree it may be intended for.
Take out and trim the tails of thirty crayfish; with the bodies and shells make some crayfish butter (No. 184), to be used in coloring some quenelles of whitings, afterward moulded with teaspoons, poached, and placed with the crayfish; to these add some Allemande or Supreme sauce, with which mix in a little of the butter made with the shells of the crayfish, and serve the ragout with the dish it is meant for.
Prepare an equal proportion of the following shell-fish - oysters, muscles, and shrimps; to these add some button mushrooms and quenelles of lobster, and moisten the ragout with a sauce made in the following manner: reduce some of the liquor of the muscles, oysters, and mushrooms, with two glasses of French white wine, and the addition of a small ladleful of Veloute sauce; finish by mixing in four yelks of eggs, a pat of butter, and a little cream : stir the sauce on the stove-fire till it boils, and then pass it through a tammy on to the ragout. Before sending it to table, add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and the juice of half a lemon.
About a dozen smelts, trussed in the same manner as whiting for frying, and boiled in a little salt and water, and afterward skinned and glazed, should be prepared to garnish round the fish with which the Rouenaise ragout is served.
 
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