The Cooking Of Fish

It is utterly impossible to give a full description in this treatise of all the fish which the American waters produce. We will, however, try to enumerate the typical varieties, and give the different methods in which they may be prepared for the table.

Needless to say, the essential quality of fish is freshness; the fiesh should be firm, the gills of a bright red, and the eyes clear and prominent.

Large fish, such as salmon, cod or halibut, should be put on the fire in cold water, and as soon as it begins to boil the kettle should be removed to the side of the range, so that the fish simmers gently until done. This cannot be specified, as it varies according to the size of the fish; here, as on many other occasions, experience shows the hand of the master.

Small fish or slices of large fish should be plunged into boiling water, although it should not be allowed to bubble.

Some cooks acidulate the water with vinegar. With few exceptions I do not approve of this method ; plain salted water is preferable.

For the white sorts of fish, as cod, halibut or turbot, milk is often added to preserve the whiteness of the meat. While this is not absolutely necessary, it certainly is not injurious.

Broiled fish should be basted liberally with sweet oil, and seasoned before being put on the fire. Broil it over a clear charcoal fire, diminishing the heat according to the size of the fish. While the fish should be crisp and nicely browned, it should never be black, as there is nothing more detestable to the taste than charred fish.

Fish that is sauted should be seasoned and dipped in flour and cooked in clarified butter over a good fire. If the fish is large, the cooking of it may be concluded in the oven.

For frying, as a rule, only small fish, or small pieces of fish, are used; they are either dipped jn milk and rolled in flour, or are egged and bread-crumbed, and sometimes dipped in frying batter.

If properly cooked, fried fish is second to none. It should be immersed in hot fat, lard, butter or oil; if the fat is not hot the fish will be soft, soggy and unfit to be served.

Fish cooked with fish stock (poche) should be cooked slowly, and not allowed to boil, merely to simmer; otherwise the fish is liable to become dry and tough.

Anguille Farcie A L'ecossaise - Stuffed Eel, Scotch Style

Cut some eels in pieces about 3 inches long; split them length-wise and remove the bone. Stuff them with fish forcemeat, to which add cooked fine herbs. Tie each piece of eel with a string and cook with white wine and fish stock.

When done, take off the string, drain and dress on a dish, and pour over Scotch Sauce.

Anguille Farcie A L'aurore - Stuffed Eel, Aurora Style

Prepare the eels as for Scotch Style, using chopped truffles instead of cooked fine herbs for the forcemeat. Cover the fish with Aurora sauce.

Anguille Frite - Fried Eel

Proceed as for Broiled Eel. When the eel is cooked and cooled, dip in beaten eggs and bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. Serve with same hot and cold sauces as Fried Sole.