Potage De Tortue Verte Au Claire - Clear Green Turtle Soup

The best and most profitable turtles are those weighing from 100 to 150 pounds.

When ready to be decapitated, lay the turtle on its back, cut off its head with a sharp strong knife, stand it head downward in a tub and make an incision between the hind fins and the upper shell, thus allowing the blood to escape more freely. If time permits, let the turtle lay in a cool place over night.

The following morning place the turtle on its back on a table, and with a sharp knife cut out the under shell, gradually removing all the meat which is attached to it; then cut off the fins and separate them from the fleshy parts to which they are attached. Detach the intestines and throw them away.

Divide the shells in four or more pieces, plunge them (as well as the fins and the head) into boiling water (for a few moments only, but long enough to enable you to remove the horny outer skin), and then lay in cold water.

For a turtle of 100 pounds, have ready the following stock (which can be prepared the previous day) :

Stock. - Put into a stock boiler 25 pounds of shin of beef and 25 pounds of knuckle of veal; fill with 15 gallons of water, and set on the fire. When boiling, remove the scum and add 4 fowls partially roasted; garnish with 5 carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 6 leeks and 2 stalks of celery tied together, and add also a good handful of salt; free the stock from scum and fat occasionally, and let simmer for 4 hours; then strain the broth and put aside for further use.

Place the cleaned turtle shells and fins in a large stock boiler, moisten with the stock prepared as above, and place on the fire.

When boiling, remove the scum and add the following ingredients tied in a cloth :

2 ounces of sweet basil,

2 ounces of marjoram, i ounce of sage,

1 ounce of thyme,

18 cloves,

12 bay leaves,

The peel of 1 lemon.

Let the soup simmer for two or three hours, or until the turtle is cooked; then, with the aid of a skimmer, remove the turtle meat, put it into a basin of cold water, wash it well to free it from all impurities, cut it into i inch square pieces, and lay in a cool place for further use.

Have 10 pounds of lean beef chopped fine, and mix with it 4 egg whites and 1 quart of water. Remove all fat from the turtle broth, strain it, and add it gradually to the chopped beef; set on the fire to clarify, stirring occasionally to prevent setting on the bottom of the pan; let simmer 1 hour, and then strain.

Place the cut turtle meat in a saucepan, add the strained broth, set on the range and let boil for 15 minutes.

The soup needs now but the finishing touch-that is, the necessary quantity of cayenne and about 1 quart of good sherry (or more, according to taste - though too much wine is injurious to the flavor).

In American-plan houses, where a 100-pound turtle has to go a good way, an addition of half consomme and half chicken broth may be made to the turtle soup; but it then loses its flavor and its rich gelatinous appearance. To remedy this, the soup may be thickened with arrowroot diluted with sherry.

Should all the soup not be used at once, it can be preserved in stone jars, covering with melted lard to prevent the contact of air.

In England, more so than in America, it is customary to serve with each portion of soup some of the green fat which is found chiefly in the sockets of the forefins. If this is desired, gather all the green fat, let it soak in cold water for a few hours, and boil in some of the turtle stock. (If the fat is not well soaked, it will be of a fishy flavor.)

Some cooks like to add sliced lemons to the soup before serving, but it is preferable to serve the lemon separate, to let the guests help themselves.

Another idea is to serve with it a garnishing of quenelles, hard-boiled egg yolk, etc., but all other ingredients than the turtle tend only to spoil the flavor and appearance of this exceptional soup, which very well merits its name of Queen of Soups.

Some three-quarters of a century ago the great Careme gave to posterity his receipt for turtle soup. It differs materially from the one above, but since those days the taste of the public in general has become more refined - they no longer want stews for soups, and that is what the old-fashioned green turtle soup was. Careme's green turtle was garnished with quenelles, truffles, mushrooms and artichokes, and was thickened with a roux - an idea which our modern epicures would call an abomination.

If I have dwelled so long on this subject, it was because it seemed worth while, and furthermore, because one hears so many complaints of how difficult it is to obtain really good turtle soup at the average hotel and restaurant. By following the above directions, one can be certain of success.

For a smaller turtle the proportions should naturally be decreased.