Since that date Mr. Atkinson has carried his researches much further, embracing the economic and scientific bearings of food - production, the nature of man's wants in relation thereto, with their results in the form of dietetics appropriate under varied circumstances, in a work full of information on all these subjects, entitled "The Science of Nutrition, and the Art of Cooking by the Aladdin Oven," with directions and receipts. Boston : Damrell & Upham. 1896.

Cooking meat by - radiation.

(b) "Roasting."

Roasting: Taste of the Fire.

The well-known "taste of the fire," so appreciated by the gourmet, is produced by actual carbonization of the surface of the roasting portion of the food, and may be largely recognized as precious to man, far beyond the domain of cookery, strictly so-called. Within it, however, this specific quality gives character and value to the surface of all broiled and grilled meats; to those also which are well browned in frying; to a slice, of well-made toast (bread); to a thoroughly baked potato, the coat of which is partly browned and crackled; to the "black onion," which develops a marvellous sweetness by the same process; and almost always its peculiar charm to the pancake, which without it would be flabby and flavourless. All the character possessed by caramel, or browned sugar, is derived from the carbonization being carried so far only that a little sweetness should still linger, although a delicate aromatic bitter is produced, each flavour enhancing the attraction of its associate; while a new beauty, that of colour, also results. All the inimitable fragrance of coffee is an effect of the same remarkable change of which partial carbonization by heat is the agent. Then the burning of almonds, and the roasting of nuts in all their variety, furnish further illustrations of the principle.

Gives opportunity for basting; value of.

The " taste of the fire."

So, carbonized wood, for the sake of the essential oils which are burned and volatilized in the rising smoke, the odours of which are thereby changed and communicated to salted meats and fish, thus conferring upon them a peculiar aroma with a slight bitterness of taste, as we all so well know, in smoked bacon, hams, tongues, herrings, haddock, and salmon.

Thus it is also to the sense of smell, so closely allied as it is with that of taste - of which I shall have to say something hereafter - that the odour of burning weeds and other vegetable matters is so delightful on a fine quiet evening in the country as it floats in an atmosphere undisturbed by the breeze.

To return after this I hope permissible digression; a joint of meat may, however, be well cooked in the oven of an ordinary kitchener or complete cooking range, as now usually made, so as closely to resemble the result obtained by true roasting. The conditions are a good supply of heat, as far as possible from the top and both sides of the oven, the ability to ventilate when desired, a pan to catch the dripping beneath the grating on which the joint rests, that pan resting on another an inch or two deeper, containing water below, the evaporation of which maintains the dripping at a moderate temperature, rendering impossible its decomposition or burning with its all-pervading offensive odour. In this way the nearest approach has been made to accomplish in an oven the results achieved by roasting; and for joints of meat it is almost successful. It is not possible thus to acquire the effect which constant basting of the roast attains, and for game certainly the latter process should be employed. Those who desire to pursue this subject further are strongly advised to make themselves acquainted with a work, already referred to, by Mr. M. Williams. It deals with the subject very fully, while its lucid and interesting style renders it very attractive; moreover, it abounds in quaint and suggestive hints, and is valuable, particularly to those who desire to avoid needless expenditure, and to preserve an intelligent method in the exercise of the household economies.* (c) Broiling. - Respecting this, I shall say no more here than that the operation resembles that of roasting, but is applicable to a small portion of flesh, and can be rapidly conducted on the gridiron over a clear fire or upon a gas grill, which latter can be made available at a moment's notice. A clear and smokeless fire is often not to be had without considerable delay and preparation, and then must be exclusively devoted to the grill as long as this is required, to the exclusion of other processes, except those which are to be conducted on the adjacent hot plate. The object is to seal the surface of the meat by heat at first, not permitting the temperature of the interior to rise to a higher point than just suffices to render it tender, as it becomes filled and expanded by its own juices, which are yielded abundantly in the form of rich red gravy when the meat is cut by the consumer a few minutes afterwards. Hence the morsel, plump and rounded by the action of the heat, must not be touched by a fork, the perforations thus made permitting the rich natural juices of the meat to escape, but be turned when necessary with a pair of light tongs. The value of the grill is, perhaps, nowhere better understood than in England, especially in relation to chops, steak, and kidney; portions of fowl, or a split chicken, the bladebone, or even a small shoulder of mutton - all of which may be thus served in perfection by a competent hand. Still, it is not quite so widely appreciated as it deserves to be in the preparation of many a small dish of fish, fowl, and meat, or "a bone," to say nothing of a grilled mushroom, either alone, or as an accompaniment to any of them. And it may be worth while, perhaps, remarking that the sauce par excellence for broils is mushroom ketchup; and the garnish cool lettuce, watercress, or endive.

An attempt to roast in the oven.

Mattieu Williams' work.

* "The Chemistry of Cooking," by Mattieu Williams. London: Chatto & Windus. 1885.

(c) Broiling;; directions for;