Trim off the coarse outside stalks, leaving about an inch of the root stalk; then cut the whole stalk into quarters or sixths from the bottom up, and throw into ice water until well crisped. If there should be dirt between the stalks it will be necessary to cut them off and brush each one separately with a vegetable brush. Throw the tender inside stalks into water to be served raw, and reserve the outside ones for cooking.
It is said that wilted celery may be restored to crispness by dipping into hot water or laying a few minutes in warm water, then plunging into ice water.
Cut tender stalks of celery (not those that are fit for flavoring only) into half-inch lengths, by handfuls on board with large knife. Put into boiling salted water and boil 30-35 m., or until just tender. Drain (there should not be much water left), pour cream or sauce over, let stand over hot water 10-20 m. Serve by itself or on toast. Sauce 16, plain, with a few drops of lemon juice in it, or made with half water in which the celery was cooked, or 34, 57 or 31 (when using 31, of course it should not stand over hot water) are all enjoyable with it.
Stew celery as above in just enough water to cook, for 25 m. and have very little water, if any, remaining; then add enough strained or unstrained stewed tomato to nearly cover, and simmer until celery is tender and tomato cooked away a little. The combination of the flavors of celery and tomato is unusually fine. The addition just before serving of a little heavy cream makes the dish still more delicious.