The following directions for the propagation of Eucalyptus are adapted very largely from Bulletin No. 196 of the California Experiment Station, entitled "Eucalyptus in California," by Norman D. Ingham (1908).

The necessary conveniences for the propagation of the seedlings are: seed-boxes or flats, a good soil, seed true to name, plenty of convenient water, and in most localities shade for the young plants. The seeds of most species may be gathered at all times of the year, although the greater amount mature during the summer and fall. The seed-cases should be gathered from the trees when the valves begin to open and placed on sheets of canvas in the direct rays of the sun, which will open the valves, allowing the seed and chaff to fall out. The number of fertile seed to the pound is very high; the average number of transplanted plants raised to the pound is 12,000. Eucalyptus seed will germinate and grow in nearly any soil but the best results are secured when the seeds are sown in a light loam, while a medium loam mixed with about one-quarter well-rotted horse-manure should be used in the transplanting flats.

The time to sow the seed varies somewhat with the locality, but as a general rule the seed should be sown in May or June and the seedlings from these sowings will be large enough to be set out in the field the following spring, if they receive proper care while young. The seed is usually sown broadcast in the seed-flats and the young plants transplanted once before being set in the field. Some persons take the trouble to sow one seed in a place and space them in the flats; by this method transplanting is unnecessary. Others sow the seeds in hills and practise thinning, instead of transplanting before setting out in the field. This last method is used in the warmer districts with good success, because of the great trouble experienced in transplanting during the hot summer months. Whichever method is used, fill the flats to a depth of 3 or 4 inches with the prepared soil, pressing it down firmly in the boxes, then sow the seeds and cover them to a depth of about 1/8 inch with the same soil, sand, or sawdust, pressing this covering firmly over them.

The seed-flats should be kept damp through the heat of the day, until the young plants break the ground, then care must be taken not to use too much water and that there is a good circulation of air over the flats, or damping-off is liable to occur. This disease can be prevented by using practically no water on cloudy days and only in the mornings on clear days. If the seeds are sown broadcast in the flats, when the young plants have reached a height of 2 to 3 inches, they can be transplanted to other flats of prepared soil and spaced from 1 1/4 to 2 inches apart. The best results in transplanting are secured if the plants are hardened-off for a few days beforehand by checking the water supply, allowing them to become quite dry. The soil into which the young plants are tranplanted should be kept damp, and the plants should be protected from the direct rays of the sun for a few days. The lath-house or the screens are necessary to supply shade for the young plants and will also protect the seeds in flats from the ravages of birds and the young plants from the frosts during winter months, before the time for setting in the field.

The time to set the plants in the field varies with the climatic conditions or localities and whether the plants are to receive irrigation or not. In localities in which frosts are common through the winter months, it is advisable to set the trees out as early in the spring as possible without endangering them to a late frost and still have them receive the benefit of the late rains, so that they will have a full season's growth to withstand the frosts of the following winter. If the trees are to be irrigated, they may be set out later in the season without danger of loss from want of moisture. To insure a good stand, the plants should not be under 6 or over 20 inches in height when set in the field; to a certain extent, the smaller the plants when set out, the better the results afterward, although the size varies somewhat with the species and the locality. In many species the roots are as long if not longer than the plant's own height above ground. This is a family of plants that will not stand a large amount of mutilation to the root-system; consequently better results are secured from setting out small plants.

If the soil is heavy rich loam, the trees may be planted as close as 6 by 6 feet apart unless irrigation is to be practised. In the latter case, 4 by 8 feet would be the right distance, thus leaving an 8-foot space for plowing out the irrigating-ditches each year. If it is a lighter soil on which the planting is to be made, 8 by 8 feet is the proper distance, or 6 by 10 feet, if irrigation is to be practised. The close planting has a tendency to sacrifice the diameter growth in favor of the height, also making more erect trees and forming a perfect canopy with their crowns that will shade the soil, nearly preventing evaporation, as well as any vegetable growth on the forest floor. Close planting matures a greater number of perfect trees, and is especially recommended when straight poles are desired. The plants should be blocked out in the flats before being brought into the field, by drawing a sharp knife between the rows. If care is taken to set out the young plants with this small amount of soil around the rootlets, the shock caused in transplanting is reduced to a minimum. Each planter should carry a trowel, to make the holes that are to receive the young plants at the intersection of the marked lines.

These holes should be of such a depth that the plants can be set from 1/2 to 1 inch lower in the soil than they originally were in the flats. Each plant should have the soil pressed firmly about it and receive a small amount of water, unless the soil is moist from recent rains.