This section is from the book "The Standard Cyclopedia Of Horticulture Vol2", by L. H. Bailey. See also: Western Garden Book: More than 8,000 Plants - The Right Plants for Your Climate - Tips from Western Garden Experts.
Yellow stripes and blotches on leaves in early summer, with olive-brown mold on them. Rots the bulb later. .
-Destroy affected plants. Spray with potassium sulfid. Use new soil thereafter.
Dark circular blotches appear on the leaves and defoliation occurs.
Destroy affected parts by burning.
Brown rust pustules rupturing epidermis of leaf.
Destroy affected plants as the fungus lives over from year to year in the same plant.
Orange patches on under surface of leaf.
Keep at a distance from species of Pinus. Burn affected plants to protect neighboring pines.
See under Pseudotsuga.
See under Lychnis.
See under Potato, Eggplant, etc.
See under Pear.
Spots on leaves, at first minute and watery, gradually increasing in size and becoming gray and dry.
Gather and destroy all diseased leaves.
Gray, slightly violet, patches of a velvety texture on under side of leaves.
As for Anthracnose, which see.
Reddish yellow and dark brown rust pustules on leaves.
Burn affected parts.
See under Cucurbita.
Small purple or red spots appearing on leaves. Leaf appears blotched.
Spray with bordeaux mixture, 4-4-50, soon after growth begins and make three or four additional sprayings during season.
See under Pea.
Black shank and a black rot of tuber.
Never use sprouts from affected potatoes. Steam sterilize hotbeds.
The sweet potato is susceptible to a large number of rots, soft, dry, hard, white, etc.
Use soil which has not grown diseased sweet potatoes heretofore.
White powdery mildew on upper surface of leaves.
Dust with sulfur.
Tips of twigs killed.
Prune off twigs.
Red eruptions on stem, leaf and flower. Causing at times swelling and crumpling of the organ.
Burn affected parts.
Diseased wood yellowish, cheesy, brittle when dry.
Causes pockets in the affected wood.
Remove all affected wood, using surgery methods.
Causes spotting and defoliation.
Two sprayings in Massachusetts resulted in longer retention of the leaves.
At first small spots appear, which spread until the whole leaf is consumed. Fruit may be attacked.
Spray with bordeaux mixture, 4-4-50, making the first application two weeks after the plants are set out and repeating every two weeks throughout the season.
See under Potato.
Due to lack of sufficient soil moisture.
Water soil in dry periods.
Pale cinnamon-brown rust pustules on under side of leaf.
Destroy by burning the affected leaves.
Catalogue of Diseases, continued.
See under Horse-Radish.
Light brown decay pitted with small oblong cavities, which are white-lined.
Soft decay of sap-wood.
Olive-brown, velvety patches formed on leaves, stem, and flowers; also, later, small black lumps at base of stems.
Burn affected plants.
See under Cabbage. Same disease.
See under Carrot. Same disease.
Black spots on upper surface of leaves.
Burn old leaves in fall or winter.
Soft rotting of wood.
Large blisters on leaves, petioles and stems, of a red or purple color. White bloom beneath.
Remove and burn diseased parts.
Powdery mildew growths on leaves.
Spray with any good fungicide or dust with powdered sulfur.
Well-defined spots on leaves.
Pick off and burn affected leaves.
Leaves disfigured by spots which occur on the stem at times as well.
Destroy diseased parts of plants.
Plants make poor growth; roots rotted off.
Start in steam-sterilized soil, and transfer to sterilized beds.
See under Grape.
Black spotting of fruit and black cankers on the stems. Twigs and fruit-spurs killed.
None known except such as mentioned under Pear Blight. Grow immune varieties.
See under Hickory-Nut. Same disease.
See under Cucumber.
Wilting of leaves and plant dries up.
None recommended. Resistant varieties should be grown.
See under Agave.
Sec under Corn.
See under Dahlia.