Transplanting is most successfully performed, whenever the roots are least required for supplying the leaves with moisture. The reason is obvious, because the roots are always in some degree broken, and lessened in their absorbing power, by the process of removal. Now the leaves require least moisture in the autumn and winter, therefore, these are the seasons when transplanting is effected with least injury to a plant. That such is the rationale of seasonable transplanting is proved by the fact that pots in plants, with reasonable care, may be transplanted at any season. This rule, too, is sanctioned both by theory and practice - transplant as early as possible after the leaves cease to require a supply of sap, the reason for which is, that the vital powers in the roots continue active long after they have become torpid in the branches and fresh roots are formed during the autumn and winter, to succeed those destroyed by transplanting.

"If the months of November and December," says Dr. Lindley, "are the most favourable for transplanting deciduous trees, and March and April the worst, how much more important must be those periods to evergreens. An evergreen differs from a deciduous plant in this material circumstance, that it has no season of rest; its leaves remain alive and active during the winter, and, consequently, it is in a state of perpetual growth. I do not mean that it is always lengthening itself in the form of new branches, for this happens periodically only in evergreens, and is usually confined to the spring; but that its circulation, perspiration, assimilation, and production of roots are incessant. Such being the case, an evergreen, when transplanted, is liable to the same risks as deciduous plants in full leaf, with one essential difference. The leaves of evergreens are provided with a thick hard epidermis, which is tender and readily permeable to aqueous exhalations only when quite young and which becomes very firm and tough by the arrival of winter, whence the rigidity always observable in the foliage of evergreen trees and shrubs.

Such a coating as this is capable, in a much less degree than one of a thinner texture, such as we find upon deciduous plants, of parting with aqueous vapour; and, moreover, its stomates are few, small, comparatively in active, and chiefly confined to the under side, where they are less exposed to dryness that if they were on the upper side also.

" But although evergreens, from their structure, are not liable to be affected by the same external circumstances as deciduous plants in the same degree ; and although, therefore, transplanting an evergreen in leaf is not the same thing as transplanting a deciduous tree in the same condition, yet it must be obvious that the great extent of perspiring surface upon the one, however low its action, constitutes much difficulty, superadded to whatever difficulty there may be in the other case.

"Hence we are irresistibly driven to the conclusion that whatever care is required in the selection of a suitable season damp, and not too cold for a deciduous tree, is still more essential for an evergreen." - Theory of Hort.

It sometimes happens that transplanting has to be performed at the most inauspicious seasons ; and when this is the case the following directions, given by Mr. Williamson, of the Sheffield Botanic Garden, may be followed with success: -

"At the Sheffield Botanical Gardens we have for some time practised what we term the washing in-system, which has been attended with success in every instance. Indeed, I doubt not that by this method trees of considerable size may be removed, at any season of the year, with safety. Towards the latter end of last May I had occasion to form a block or screen, in a situation fully exposed to the sun, for which purpose I transplanted a number of tall trees and evergreens, not one of which was injured by the removal ; and early this May we disposed of upwards of a dozen large horse-chestnuts, Spanish ditto, limes, sycamore, and birches, all from ten to eighteen feet high, in full leaf, to a gentleman in this neighbourhood, the planting of which I superintended. All at this time (a fortnight subsequently) exhibit no appearance of having been removed. In the first place, we make the hole where the tree is intended to be placed sufficiently large for the roots to be extended at full length; and, in removing the tree, great care is taken to avoid cutting or injuring the roots. If a ball of earth is retained so much the better, as it will assist in steadying the tree; but, if well staked, it is not of much importance.

As it is essential that the roots be as little exposed to the atmosphere as possible, we provide sufficient earth, either sifted or finely reduced by a spade or rake, and have in readiness as many buckets of water as will nearly fill the hole; the tree is then placed in its intended position; the whole of the water is then thrown over the roots, the fibres of which will be supported by it. The fine earth is then expeditiously sprinkled over the surface of the water, and, gradually subsiding, fills all the interstices, and gives stability to the tree, which is further secured by three stakes placed at right angles, which finishes the operation. The earth must not be trodden, as is often done." - Gard. Chron.

The following observations, in the Gardener's Chronicle, so epitomize all that is practically essential in transplanting, that it is extracted with little abbreviation: -

"In the removal of large trees or shrubs, first form the pit, where the plant is to be planted, from twelve to fourteen inches wider than the roots will reach.

"In lifting laurels, and other evergreens, always bind up the plant with strong straw ropes, tying one end of the rope to one of the strong branches in the centre of the plant, and, taking up all the branches, draw into as small a compass as possible, without injuring the plant. Clear the roots, and, supposing the plant to be a common laurel, six or eight feet high, begin as many feet from the main stem, and cut a trench round the plant at the said distance, as deep as it may be supposed the roots have gone down; then reduce the ball by degrees with a fork, cleaning out the soil with a spade, and taking care not to injure any of the roots or fibres. These tie up in trusses with matting, in order to prevent them, as much as possible, from being injured. Clear the roots to within two or three feet of the main stem, and then undermine the solid piece that is left.

"When the plant is ready for removal, the strength for lifting it will depend upon its size, and the weight of the ball left, if any. When the plant is brought to the pit and placed in the cenure of it, untie the roots, and dress with a sharp knife any that may have been bruised. Shorten strong ones, that they may make young fibres, upon which the welfare of the plant in a great measure depends. After dressing the roots, lay them all carefully out round the pit. If there are one, two, or three layers of roots, as is often the case, keep each layer by itself, and lay out the undermost first, taking care to spread out every fibre with the hand. On these spread well-broken soil; but in doing this, care must be taken not to club the roots together. After the first layer of roots is well covered proceed with the nest, and so on until all is finished.

"After transplanting, never give the plants water oftener than once, which is immediately after the operation of planting is performed. Many young trees and shrubs are destroyed (after having been transplanted) by the frequent application of water in dry weather. After the roots are all well covered, leave the pit three or four inches unfilled, and apply the water according to the state of the soil, and size of the plant. To a shrub, that covers about four square yards of ground (if the soil is not very moist), give about eight common sized watering potfuls, and so on for every square yard of ground covered. The only-treading to be permitted is merely what may take place in going round them in taking away the rope and spreading out the branches in their original position. The above remarks apply well to the common and Portugal laurel, and also to deciduous trees and shrubs in gene- ral. A few kinds that are difficult to remove without balls when they are large plants, are the following: - the holly is one that is impatient of being removed without a ball, and in free light soils it will not lift with one. The best method with it is this.

Two years before removal, open a trench round the plant about two feet from the main stem (more or less, according to its size). Two feet will do for a plant six feet high. Go as deep as there are roots, and cut clean off all those outside of the ball, and again fill in the soil. In about two years afterwards, the cut roots will have made firm young fibres, which supply the plant with food when it is transplanted. In lifting them, always try to get a good ball with them. The Laurestinus is not very fond of being removed without a ball. There are but very few of the fir tribe that can be transplanted after they have attained the height of from six to sixteen feet; but the best are the silver, the spruce, and the Weymouth pines. The silver fir bears transplanting tolerably well, provided care is taken not to injure the roots, which run horizontally near the surface. The spruce lifts well, even when sixteen feet high ; and the Weymouth pines from ten to twelve feet high. In lifting them always try to get good balls with them, keeping their roots as entire as possible, and making the pits wherein they are to be planted large, so as to get all their roots spread out as regularly as possible ; when covered, water in the same manner as evergreen shrubs.

In lifting and transplanting hard-wooded trees, such as oaks, etc, keep their roots as entire as possible, and shorten in any strong ones ; they should be well watered. It is very essential to the welfare of plants that have been transplanted to have them well supported to prevent them from shaking with the wind, etc. For trees from ten to twenty feet high, use three poles, set up in the form of a triangle ; roll a straw rope round the stem of the tree, for the poles to rest on, as it prevents them from hurting the bark ; then, after tying the poles firmly to the tree, and fixing them in the ground, the work is finished. For plants of smaller size use small rope, tied in the same manner to the tree, and fixed to stakes driven into the ground, after the manner of tent ropes.

"No doubt the summer months are not proper for transplanting, therefore it should be avoided if possible. From October to April, all shrubs, etc. may be lifted with safety. November is preferable for lifting large plants, as those planted about that time always send out young roots during winter; frequently by February, from one to three inches long.-Gard. Chron.