Should the month prove genial, Fuchsias that have been in a cold frame through the winter will begin to push: turn them out, reduce the ball, cut back the roots, and repot, allowing only a small amount of room over and above the space occupied by the diminished ball. Spur them back in a way best calculated to form a bushy head, place them for a week or two in a moderately warm house, or, if returned to the frame, keep close: water sparingly at present. Those selected for early bloom have, or ought to have, been ere this started in heat, and made sufficient growth to render occasional stopping necessary; an attention by no means to be neglected, as the future beauty or unsightliness of the plant will be the consequence. I do not recommend driving too fast at first starting, but rather, like a skilful whip, increase my speed as I proceed on the journey: a maximum temperature of 50° at day, and minimum of 35° at night, is most suitable. As the roots make their appearance at the side, or through the hole at bottom, shift to the next size larger; always remembering that it is better to give two slight shifts than one large. And here let me caution the operator against using compost too wet, or that has not been shut up for at least a fortnight in the stove.

This precaution must be obvious, for the bringing young and succulent roots into immediate contact with soddened cold soil will cause such a check to the flow of sap, as to throw back the plant a month, perhaps kill it. Cuttings taken from these plants will strike like weeds in river or silver sand, plunging the pots in gentle heat, covering with a hand-glass. No time should be lost in sowing seed; plunge the pots in heat to induce early germination, or, in all probability, the plants will not bloom till the following year.

Whitehill. W. H. Story.

Fuchsias #1

Continue the treatment recommended last month. Seedlings should be potted off singly into 2 1/2-inch pots, shifting as often as the roots make their appearance on the outside of the ball. Keep up, indeed rather increase the temperature recommended for last month. Have an eye upon your specimens; they will frequently need tying out and stopping, or a loose, straggling-looking plant will be the consequence of present neglect. W. H. Story.

Fuchsias #2

Keep them growing by every available means, syringe overhead at least once a day, also sluice the paths of the house, to increase humidity. In giving the final shift, add a double handful of bone-dust to about a bushel of compost, - it is an excellent support to the plant during its flowering season. Water once a fortnight with a weak solution of guano water. Shade in sunny weather; admit air in the middle of the day from the roof; never let them flag for want of water.

Whitehill. W. H. Story.

Fuchsias #3

Fuchsias are now in vigorous active growth, and require daily looking to, not only to administer the necessary supply of water, but to give the final shift, as the roots make their appearance around the surface of the ball (see last month's Florist, p. 108). Should the plants appear drawn, from too close confinement, raise them on inverted flower-pots, or some such contrivance, to within a few inches of the glass; admit air liberally during the day, avoiding, however, the contact of a direct current of cold air, which is apt to turn the foliage rusty. Towards the end of the month, remove to an ordinary greenhouse, and treat accordingly. Seedling plants should now be sufficiently forward to need their final shift; and in a few days after may follow the old plants to a cool house. W. H. Story.

Fuchsias #4

The principal attention that Fuchsias require this month consists in watering, giving support to those seedlings that require it, tying out and arranging future growth of specimens, and fumigating the house with tobacco the moment aphides are detected. W. H. Story.

Fuchsias #5

Ditto. W. H. Story.