Enough to fill volumes has been written concerning the cultivation of this flower, and it is not to our credit that it holds such a subordinate place in our esteem; nor are the present generation in a small degree free of culpability in treating with cold neglect countless other species whose excellences constitute them the choicest gems which adorn Flora's crown. But we shall not despond, for the time is fast approaching when there will be no reason to lament their absence. There is now a longing for the flowers that were our pets in our young days.

These remarks are not intended as a disparagement of the brilliant few which captivate our senses, and paint our beds and borders in such gay colours three months of the year, and, I must add, monopolise both, almost to the exclusion of the many. No; they are so good and serviceable in their place that their presence is indispensable. Let us have both, each in its proper place.

That the now popular plan of adopting some of the spring flowers as a break in the nine months' yearly interval of naked beds and borders is a step in the proper direction must be admitted. Still, however acceptable in its way, we have reason to fear the system is too expensive for the generality of people to adopt without considerable sacrifice in other departments of the garden, which are often robbed in proportion to the requirements of a favoured few beds. It is exceedingly nice, this plan of groups and stripes; then the beauty of each kind is much enhanced by being displayed in numbers and in contrast. By all means let us have the plan continued; but, in addition, we want to see old friends in their old places also. This can easily be carried out without the old custom and confusion often witnessed in the herbaceous borders - that of cramming in all and sundry without discrimination, out of which, as might be expected, a medley of irregularity and confusion arises, the strong plants overpowering the weak.

All that is wanted is a judicious selection judiciously arranged, avoiding botanical collections, unless in a place specially reserved for such an object.

Primula Auricula, or Mountain Cowslip, is one of the most ancient inhabitants of the British gardens. It was cultivated by Gerard as early as 1597; but when it was introduced from its Alpine home (being a native of Switzerland, Austria, Styria, and other highlands of Europe) no authentic record exists, so far as we know. The family is divided into two groups - namely, "Stage" and "Alpine." The former are more highly refined, and are distinguished from Alpines by the flowers being divided into distinct zones of various rich colours. The Stage group consists of green-edged, grey-edged, white-edged, and "Selfs" of various colours and hues. The Alpines exhibit also a wide diversity of colours and shades of colour, their flowers being generally composed of two colours - viz., the external or ground colour, the "paste" or internal division, which means the eye, and centre, and the cluster of sexual organs fitted into the tube. Alpines are found to be the most hardy of the two, and therefore better fitted for planting in beds and otherwise without the aid of protection during severe weather.

Meantime we purpose discussing the culture of the Stage varieties.

Propagation

This is effected by division of the root, by offsets of the approved sorts, and by seed when new varieties are in request.

We shall consider, in the first place, the mode of multiplying by offsets. Some authorities recommend early summer; others any time throughout the year when offshoots can be had, unless in the dead of winter; others, again, strictly adhere to the early part of August, - each, no doubt, considering his plan the best. Our own practice has been to adopt the August time; and our reason for doing so is the fact that Auriculas, Polyanthuses, and Primroses start into a quiet autumn growth, more or less, according to the nature of the weather. This growth serves the end exactly of re-establishing old plants in the soil before winter, after being shaken out of the soil and repotted into new soil, a process necessary for flowering-plants once a-year; therefore this period serves the double purpose of potting and extending the stock. Moreover, the soil is in much better condition when the time arrives for the plants to flower and make their annual growth, being neither so much exhausted by watering or any other means, as if the plants were potted in spring or summer.

The method of separating the offsets from the mother plant is performed by first turning the ball out of the pot, disengaging the soil with the fingers entirely; the youngsters are then disengaged by slipping them off by the thumb and forefinger with the least damage to old or young. Those offsets furnished with one or two fibres situated at the base of the plants, are in better condition than those higher up; they strike readier into the soil, and ultimately prove the most robust stools or crowns. Proceeding with the operation, the old plant is next examined, its tap-root shortened back to within 1 inch of the base of the lowest leaves; the roots are next rinsed in pure water perfectly free of the soil. It will now be seen if any part of the root is affected with a disease called blackrot - a most destructive malady, which always proves fatal when it gets hold of a plant, and is allowed to remain or take its course. The only remedy is to cut out the affected part without leaving a trace behind, no matter at what apparent sacrifice; then carefully dust the wound thickly over with powdered charcoal, and repot the plant.

Next give attention to the cuttings or offsets; remove any withered leaves by pulling them clean away from the stem, inspect the root, and wash as directed for the old plant. If the root is any way damaged by the separating process from the mother plant, cut it clean away, and dust with charcoal. Then comes the potting. The size of the pots for this purpose ought to be those of 3 or 4 inches diameter; and the offsets are inserted around the edge of the pots at equal distances in threes and fours, according to the size of pots and plants, but they must not be crowded, - presuming that these pots have been washed from all impurities, as also the crocks intended to act as drainage; or should the pots be new, they ought to be steeped in a tub of water and afterwards allowed to dry again. It is most important to have clean pots. Regarding soil, scarcely two cultivators agree; and it would just be a waste of paper to enumerate all the varied mixtures recommended. Suffice it to say that the following simple compound is all that is required: two parts fresh loam, with the fibres well reduced; one part pure river-sand, rather sharp; and one part leaf-mould and cow-droppings decomposed to an earthy consistency.

Use rather more than the usual quantity of crocks, and cover with a sprinkling of rough leaf-mould; fill the pot lightly to the rim with the compost, over which spread a little silver sand; then make insertions at proper distances for the plants with a dibbler: when the plants are arranged, press the body gently together, give enough of water to moisten the soil, and they are ready to be placed in the nursery-frame with a south aspect. And the more to facilitate the rooting process, cover each pot or set of pots with hand-glasses, raised a little on one side to prevent damping of the leaves while in their semi-inactive state. Attend to sponging off any condensed vapour that accumulates on the glass daily, and see that the plants stand well up above ground and near the glass, and that a moderate but constant amount of air flows in and out of the frame to dispel the stagnant humidity.

When it is ascertained that they have begun to make fresh roots, remove the hand-glasses; for by prolonging their use after this, the plants will become drawn and weakly. And when the time has elapsed that the young plants have roots enough to warrant their being potted separately, they ought to be potted into pots 3 inches wide, and returned to the frame without delay, so that they receive no check. After a few days the plants will have rallied from any temporary check occasioned by the shifting; so more air and sunshine may be admitted amongst them. Let this be given by degrees, and see that they do not suffer for the lack of water. Allow me here to give a suggestion regarding the kind of pan used in watering. It should be a small one with a short spout, furnished with a sudden bend near the outlet, with the addition of a piece of thin tubing inserted, to prevent the water rushing suddenly and lodging amongst the leaves of the plants. In case of accident, the operator ought to be furnished with a pocket-syringe to extract the water when it happens to get a lodgment in the centre of the plants: the result of water being allowed to remain is to foster rot.

Always water in moderation, neither permitting the compost to get saturated nor powdery dry, but keep it just in a slightly moist state, until the succeeding October, when the sun's rays have considerably decreased, and the period has arrived to place them in their winter quarters.

There is some importance attached to the proper construction of the frame or house wherein the plants are to winter and flower. I shall endeavour to give the details of a two-light frame I used for that purpose many years since, which was found most suitable. The dimensions were: length, 7 feet 7 inches; length of sash, 6 feet 4 inches; height at back, 4 feet 10 inches; and of front, 3 feet. The frame stood on 6 stout feet, and had 8 inches of an opening all round, to secure abundant ventilation from below. The back was furnished with a ventilator which extended the entire length; this was situated near the top. This ventilator was a deal 6 inches wide suspended by hinges, and fitted in flush with the back of the frames. A similar ventilator was in front. The interior of the frame was filled with a stage which rose to a uniform distance with the sashes by means of being shelved, each shelf being 5 inches wide, with a groove run out of the centre of each to carry away the water drained from the pots; distance of stage from glass, 14 inches. Besides the glass roof, both ends were glazed, the glass starting from the lowest or front shelf.

Inside the frame, below, was paved with dressed stones, as indeed the court in which both Auricula and Polyanthus frames stood; it was very dry, owing to the declivity of the ground.

At the commencement of October have all the plants examined. Wash the pots, stir the surface of the soil, remove all moss and weeds, as well as any withered portions of leaves close into the stems, for such leaves become conductors of damp, and occasion the much-to-be-feared gangrene. The frame is changed from a northern to a southern aspect over winter, and water withheld, except when there are signs of flagging. Air constantly, unless in severe frost and foggy weather; this can be done when it rains by letting down front and back ventilators. In very severe frost the plants should be protected by means of mats, and a piece of tarpaulin over them to preserve all dry. Of course such covering must only be resorted to when unavoidable to preserve the plants, and should daily be taken off to give them an interval of light if at all possible.

A. Kerb. (To be continued).