Four-inch pots are large enough for the strongest plants, while the smallest may have a size less. The soil should be rich, such as old Melon-bed loam and well-rotted leaf-mould in equal proportions, with a slight sprinkling of fine bone-dust and sand. A single crock in each pot is enough. They should be potted firmly, and room left in the pot to hold plenty of water when they require it. In lifting the plants from the frame, the object should be more to get the roots as entire as possible than to preserve a ball of earth to them. None of them should be discarded on account of their being small if healthy, for the greater the variety in size, the longer and more regular the succession a given number of plants will afford. After being potted and well watered, they should be returned to the pit or frame and kept close for a time till they begin to take with the pots. Then they must be inured to full exposure, but always protected from frost, although in all other respects grown in a hard manner. By the end of March, or, should the weather be cold, the beginning of April, is soon enough to plant them out, unless in more favoured localities. The ground intended for them should be trenched and well manured with thoroughly-rotted dung.

Some of the most forward plants should be planted in a border with a south exposure, on a rather light rich soil. Here they will succeed those in the glasses. The rest may be planted in the open quarters, where the earliest of them will follow up those in the early border. In performing the operation of planting, circumstances must determine the exact way in which it is best performed. On heavy-cold soils, upon which it is advisable to tread as little as possible after it is trenched, I have frequently left the trenching till the time of planting, and put the plants out as the trenching proceeded. Having a heap of light rich soil in readiness beforehand, a couple of spadefuls of it was put round the ball of each plant to give it a start. This may perhaps be considered a preferable way of doing the work on such soils, to that of first trenching the ground and then throwing out pits for the light soil, inasmuch as all treading of the ground is avoided. In free fine soils there is nothing necessary beyond setting the line and planting the plant-balls entire in the natural ground. They should always be planted at such a depth that the soil reaches up to the first leaves of the plants. Two feet by two is plenty of room for producing moderate-sized heads.

If large ones for the hall be an object, some of them may be planted wider; but for all practical purposes, 2 feet by 2 is enough.

In heavy soils, slugs are a great pest if the spring proves wet, and a few plants should be kept in reserve to make up blanks. Cinder-ashes, sand, and various other things which slugs do not relish, may be spread over the soil round each plant to help to check their work; but to catch them and kill them is probably the best way of saving the plants.

Where the ground is exposed to the north and east, it is a good plan to stick in a stiff sprig or two of Evergreen on those sides of each plant, to protect them from cutting winds, which often prevail at that season. As they progress in growth they must be attended to by drawing a little soil to them, to keep them from becoming loose at the neck. And if dry, a good watering should be given before they are moulded up.

To make sure of succession, I have frequently planted some of these potted plants on a north border, and found them come in very handy, especially when the season proved hot and dry.

About the middle of February, a sowing should be made in heat to succeed the autumn-sown plants. The temperature should be from 55° to 60° till they come up, then they should be removed to a dry cold pit or frame and placed near to the glass, and when about 2 inches in height pricked off into rich soil in a cold frame. Here they are completely protected from any frost that may occur, but otherwise hardily reared. These make fine strong plants by May, ready to be planted out. They should be lifted with good balls, and carefully planted and attended to with water should the weather be dry, till they get a good hold of the soil. For summer plantations a good holding well manured and worked loamy soil is the best; and in dry sandy soils it is most difficult to prevent a great bulk of the crops from buttoning if the season prove dry.

To succeed this sowing made in heat, I have usually found it desirable to make another under hand-glasses on a wall border about the middle of March, and afterwards at intervals of three weeks up to the middle of June. The plants should always be pricked out into beds of rich soil as soon as they can be conveniently handled, and before they become drawn in the seed-bed. They suffer less from the transplanting when young than if it be delayed till they form deeper tap-roots. From the time they are pricked out till they are established in the garden quarters, they must never be allowed to get a check for want of water, for if once they become "blue," there is little chance of their doing well afterwards. This frequent sowing and as frequent planting is the only way to be sure of keeping up a constant succession of nice heads fit to present in the dining-room. It is not necessary to make large plantations, except in the case of the last for the season, from which a winter supply is expected at least up to Christmas. The last should therefore be the largest of the plantings, as it comes in at a cool season, when the heads stand long in good condition, and can be stored away to keep in quantities.

The time for making the last sowing and planting will require always to be determined by the climate of different localities. Here the latest may be delayed till August, but in most places in Scotland it will require to be planted somewhat earlier. By the time the latest is consumed it is succeeded by that excellent variety of Broccoli known by the name of Snow's Winter Broccoli, easier known by name than by experience, although I always manage to get it true.

In light dry soils I have found it a good plan to make sure of good Cauliflower, in very dry seasons, to plant a few rows among rows of Pease kept rather wider apart than is common. The Pease afford shade to the plants, and I have seen them do well when they buttoned extensively in open quarters. The later, and particularly the latest, should always be in well-exposed situations. It is a practice in England to take two crops of Cauliflower from the same ground. When those planted in April in an open quarter are cut, which is generally by the 1st of July, I have frequently trenched or dug the ground and planted again, and had two good crops in the same place. The latest planting has generally succeeded the earliest sowing of French Beans and second early Potatoes.

In keeping up a constant supply of this vegetable, one of the most necessary auxiliaries is a cool, dry, dark cellar, with its floor, or part of it at least, covered 6 inches deep with moist sand. When Cauliflower comes in quicker than it can be used, it should be cut - when scarcely so big as is desired for table - with half a foot of the stem attached, the leaves cut off square with the surface of the flower, and then stuck into the sand in the cool dark place. In this way they keep crisp for weeks; and for saving the late crop when frost sets in, it is a plan much preferable to that of hanging them up in sheds with the leaves and stumps attached; and late in the season particularly, it is surprising how long they keep in good condition.

As to the best kinds of Cauliflower for different seasons, I think, if I had to confine myself to one sort, I would choose the Walcheren. For a summer variety probably the New Frogmore is preferable, inasmuch as it stands longer without opening or running than the Wal-cheren. These two, with the Early London, are the varieties I confine myself to. About fifteen or perhaps more years ago, there was a sort grown about London as Myatt's Cauliflower, which to my mind was the best I ever saw, but have not seen it true for a good many years.

D. Thomson.