Keep the lawn well-rolled and smoothly cut, removing all fallen leaves. These can be much more easily swept up when the grass is smooth and short than when it is otherwise. The walks should be kept well rolled and their edgings neatly cut. When walks, edgings and lawns are neatly kept, the garden always looks well even though flowers and color may be scarce.
Examine Lily bulbs carefully as soon as their leaves have fallen and their stems are dead, to see if they are attacked by wire-worms. Should cut, wire or other worms be found at work in the bulbs, take the bulbs up at once and dip them in water strongly diluted with soot, and, as soon as the bulbs have been cleared of the pest, plant them, in a different part of the garden, in fresh soil in which no worms or other vermin are to be found. The soil should be rich and soft with no rocks or hard clay in its composition. Plant so that the top of the bulb will be two or three inches under the soil.
Tuberous Begonias, which have ceased to grow or flower, should have their stems cleared of all decaying leaves, and their tubers lifted and shaken clear of soil; place them in boxes half-filled with sandy leaf-mold, and store in a cool dry place where they may be kept until required for replanting in the Spring.
Dahlias also, as soon as their tops are ripe and their flowering ceases, should have their stems cut down to within a foot of the ground and their roots lifted and freed from all soil. After attaching labels to each, place them in a cool, dry shed for a few weeks and then store them away for the Winter.
Montbretias, where they have got matted too thickly, should be taken up and the best bulbs selected and replanted in other quarters, or, if in the same ground, after the soil has been dug over two feet deep and enriched by a heavy layer of manure well-mixed through the soil.
Other hardy bulbs, such as Iris Kaempferi, and Iris Ger-manica as well as the Spanish and English varieties, should be closely examined, and, if the bulbs are at all crowded, taken up. Have the ground spaded and enriched by a heavy coating of manure and then replant the plants. Most of the Iris prefer a moist situation and a rich soil.
Cut down old flower-stems and divide the crowns; replant them, where they are desired to bloom, in good rich loam. This same treatment may be given to the herbaceous plants such as perennial Phlox, Doronicums, Delphiniums, Kniphofias, etc. Vacant spaces may still be planted with Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils and other Spring-flowering bulbs, planting as recommended in a former month.
Myosotis should be planted freely in any dry bank as soon as the rains have sufficiently moistened the soil.
Primroses and Cowslips (if this has not already been done) should have the crowns divided and replanted singly about six inches apart after the soil has been cultivated and enriched.
Canterbury Bells may be set out in suitably prepared spots. These plants look exceedingly well in clumps or groups. Plant them about eighteen inches apart and not too deep.
When it is desirable to plant evergreen shrubs or trees, November is one of the best months for doing the work. Camellias, Rhododendrons, Magnolias, Laurels, Pittosporums and other hardy evergreens move well at this season. See that the soil is in good condition, neither too wet so that it becomes sticky with working, nor so dry that it does not break softly. It should be moist, without being wet or soggy, so that it will rest kindly among the fine fibrous roots. Working the soil among the roots with the fingers is still the best way to manage this very important part of transplanting either flowering plants or shrubs.
Palms and other smooth-leaved evergreens, such as Cro-tons, Marantas, Cycas, etc., which may be infested with scale, should be carefully sponged and cleaned, using a little soap and plenty of clean tepid water. Keep Cyclamen plants near the roof-glass. Should any of the plants require repotting, pot them in a compost of three parts good friable loam and one part leaf-mold with enough silver-sand to keep the soil free and open. Should the foliage be attacked by Mites, which will be shown first by the rusty appearance of the foliage, dip the leaves in a strong solution of tobacco-water, two or three times, at intervals of two days. Keep at a temperature of about fifty degrees Fahrenheit.
In order to have healthy, strong plants, careful attention must be paid to their roots; repotting at the proper time is very essential. Should the operation be delayed too long the plants become stunted and rarely recover from the neglect. They should be moved just as soon as the roots have well-occupied the soil. Keep the plants in a cool half-shaded position away from fire-heat and dry air. While giving them plenty of ventilation, no cold draughts should be allowed to reach their foliage. Should green fly attack the leaves, fumigate at once, and, if necessary, two evenings in succession, until all trace of the aphides disappears.