Then suddenly along in July, the color scheme becomes red and white; Poppies, Phlox, Crimson Ramblers, Pen-stemon, Lychnis, Salvias, Cannas, the tall white Auratums, Boconia cordata, and Iris.
Then for a time no one color makes itself felt, but all prevail equally until in late August, when white and yellow become dominant; white Lilies, Hydrangeas, and Altheas; Rudbeckia, waving its great branches of golden blossoms in every breeze; lovely Calendula in many shades of yellow; tall, flaunting, orange Marigolds; Sunflowers; Coreopsis, and Gaillardias.
And when, at last, the relentless frost comes to blacken and destroy our garden by one cold night, the colors seem more glorious and varied than at any other time; and Cannas, Gladioli, Salvias, late Lilies, the third blossoming of the brave Larkspurs; Gaillardias; Phlox; hardy Sunflowers, and many annuals are in their prime.
But the Japanese Anemones, the Chrysanthemums, Monkshood, and some faithful Roses stay by us until quite thick ice has formed. If you have a few plants each of Madam Plantier, Clotile Soupert, pink Sou-pert, La France, Mrs. Lang and the Jubilee Roses, you will be able to cut a handful of these flowers every day from the end of May until late in the Autumn.
The annuals come in most successfully for filling in among perennials and for giving flowers in late Autumn; - such as Asters, of which one can never have too many, Zinnias, Cosmos, Cockscomb, Centauria, Sweet Sultan, Phlox Drummondi, Calendulas, Balsam, the pale pink and the white, whose flowers are as large as Camelias; Snap Dragon, and Stocks. These last two plants should be started very early and are most effective when set in large masses. I buy only the seeds of white Stocks, but, alas! there are always purple ones among them, as mistakes are sometimes made by the most careful seedsmen.
Godetias are valuable annuals, giving for the three months from June until September continuous bloom in purple, red and white flowers, white blotched with red, and pink spotted with crimson. They should be set a foot apart and do well in a somewhat poor soil and in partially shaded places. If the seed pods are cut continually they make a long period of bloom and are as satisfactory in a border as Phlox Drummondi.
In a bed containing three dozen plants of Tritoma Pfitzirii, set two feet and a half apart to give full room to spread out as they became large, I planted scarlet Zinnias to fill up the rather sad-looking bed for the first Summer. Imagine the horrible effect when in mid-July both plants began to bloom at the same time - Tritomas orange scarlet and Zinnias salmon pink. Supposedly scarlet Zinnia seed had been sown, but it proved upon blossoming to be pink.
Vase of Platycodon July tenth.
Seeds of Hollyhocks often fail to produce flowers like those of the original plant from which they were taken, as the bees probably mix the pollen. And self-sown Phlox is almost sure to revert to the original purple.
Every year when the Phlox blooms I find purple and magenta blossoming against scar-let and pink, and, because it is not possible for me to root out a plant in flower, I tie strips of black cambric low down around the stems of such plants, that they may be recognized and removed when the Autumn work is being done. If, however, all the purple Phloxes are placed somewhere in a mass, together with a quantity of the white, they become at once an object of unusual beauty.
The seeds of Salvias germinate easily and by sowing them in a hot-bed or in a box in a sunny window early in March, plants can easily be raised which should begin to blossom the end of June. The seeds may even be sown in finely pulverized soil in the open ground by the middle of April, if given some protection on frosty nights, and the plants will begin to bloom in August.
In a bed where Salvias bloomed last year, Lillium album were planted the first week in April among Tulips that were just putting up their green heads, so that the soil was disturbed as little as possible. Later, white Asters were planted in the same bed wherever there was space. When the time arrived for the first weeding of this bed, forty seedling Salvia plants were taken from it. The seeds had fallen the Autumn before, and the germ of life had survived the long, cold Winter.
If anyone is so fortunate as to have a stream running through her place or a small pond, let her rejoice greatly and see what beauty she can develop around it. The effect should be natural, as if the hand of man had taken no part therein. Willows should be planted first for the background, and then great clumps of Rhododendrons. The tall grass Arondo donax, the tall and tropical-like Boconia cordata, Japanese Iris, white Lysimachia, commonly called "Loosestrife"; Hibiscus, red Bee Balm, Eupato-rium, tall-growing with large heads of old-rose-colored flowers, Cardinal flower and •Ferns from wet places are a few of the hardy plants that will flourish in such a situation.
The Water Hyacinths, and the double-flowering Arrow-head, which bears white blossoms on spikes two feet tall, can be grown on the very edge of the pond where the water is only two or three inches deep. In planting, firm the roots well into the mud.
Of hardy Water Lilies, the English Nymphae flava, Nymphae odorata rosea, the Cape Cod Water Lily, deep pink in color, with the Nymphae odorata, our native white Water-Lily, should give the amateur a sufficient number of aquatics with which to begin the water garden. The Nymphae should be planted about the 15th of May. It is generally enough to press the root well into the soil of the pond, but if the mud does not seem to be rich, then the Lily roots can be planted in boxes of very rich soil and sunk in the pond. Directions are occasionally given to tie the root to a stone, and throw it into the water, but the Lilies will be more apt to grow if planted directly into the soil of the pond or stream. These lilies are hardy and can be allowed to remain in the water.