Where the modern, iron-framed houses are built the bar used is usually very light, but well supported by a number of purlins. On these houses the glass is usually lapped and there are only one or two points to observe. The putty should be of good quality, and to it should be added one-fifth of white lead. The glass should be pressed down till the putty is spread out evenly and over the entire surface of the shoulder of the bar; this will save much labor when you take off the back putty, as there will be no holes to fill up.
In old style glazing you saw laps of all sizes from a sixteenth of an inch to one inch. The longer the lap the more place for dust and dirt to lodge with no means or chance to clean it out, so you have a dark strip across at the junction of every light. One-eighth of an inch is the ideal length of a lap for any size glass and it makes just as warm a house as a lap of two inches.
The best thing I have found to hold the glass down as well as to hold it from slipping down is the Peerless glazing point. It is a small double staple which has a shoulder in the top or end that both holds down the glass and at the same time prevents its slipping.
There are, however, several other brads or points used for lapped glass. If you have found any one of them satisfactory, stick to it, but to save a trifling expense to use the points and brads from your local shoemaker is unwise.
Houses that are glazed with putty should have a coat of paint after the glass is in, regardless of how many coats the bars have had before they were put up. One-eighth of an inch is usually allowed between the bars; this allows only one-sixteenth of an inch on each side between the glass and the wood.