And now we've arrived near the close of the year, Winter Apples and Cranberries bring up the rear; All are good of their kind, and we freely declare, Not one of the Fruits we would willingly spare.

Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Chestnut, Mulberry, Quince, Walnut, and other hardy fruit trees may now bo planted; use caution not to injure them in taking up or removing them; let holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient depth to allow of some good rich compost or pulverized earth to be thrown in before the trees are planted. See pages 9, 34, 103 and 125, and read the article headed 'Observations on the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,' page 32.

Finish gathering late varieties of Apples, Pears, Grapes, &c; do it in dry weather, and stow them away out of the reach of frost, as recommended last month.

Cranberry, Currant, Filbert, Gooseberry, and Raspberry shrubs may be planted this month; at the same time cut out all crowded branches, superfluous suckers, worn-out bearers, and decayed wood, 58, 60, 65, 70 and 134.

Strawberry beds made in August and September, as well as those of greater age, may be covered up with leaves, light manure, salt hay, or other litter.

Protect the beds where fruit seeds and cuttings were planted last month, by a covering of light manure, compost, or leaves of trees.

Winter pruning may be performed this month on some species of hardy trees, shrubs, vines, etc, and continued at all opportunities throughout the next month, 23.

Fig Trees, Tender Grape Vines, as well as the Antwerp and other half-hardy Raspberry Shrubs, must be protected from the effects of frost, which is done by bending them down to the ground and covering them with earth five or six inches, which should be sloped so as to carry off the rain. Some of the trained Vines and Fig Trees may be protected with wickers of straw or matting, 63, 80 and 135.