Fencing And Staking

In order to prevent damage, newly planted trees should be fenced and staked at once. Of fences or guards there are many kinds: they are made of wood, wire, or iron. The iron tree-guard has many advantages over those of wood or expanded metal, and, being made in two sections, it can be readily placed in position after the tree has been planted. For trees from 12 to 14 ft. high the guards need not exceed, say, 7 ft. in height, and preference should be given to those in which the uprights are bent outwards at the top; for this not only lessens the risk of interference with the branches, but is pleasing in appearance. Sometimes it may not be considered necessary to protect town trees, particularly such as are growing in side streets, or squares, but in every case firm staking is necessary in order to prevent damage from wind.

Wooden tree guards consist of about half-a-dozen poles or uprights, about 7 ft. long, joined together around the tree trunk by means of wire. When compared with those of iron, they have, however, several disadvantages; for they may be climbed with ease and they do not last long. Where it is found sufficient to stake the trees without having recourse to guards, Ash poles, from 2 to 3 inches in diameter, and 10 ft. high, should be driven firmly into the ground as close to the stem as possible. The tree should be tied with specially prepared tar rope, which should be crossed between the stem and stake to prevent damage by chafing. From time to time it will be necessary to see that the band of string does not become too tight. On rare occasions only is it necessary to stake shrubs, but this is sometimes needed in exposed positions or in the case of shrubs of unusually large size.

Watering And After Management

For a few years after being planted, trees and shrubs will require a certain amount of attention in the matter of watering and mulching during prolonged heat and drought, as also preventing the evils attending excessive wind-swaying by the stakes and moorings becoming defective.

The goat and wood leopard moth, as also numerous kinds of caterpillars, attack newly planted town trees, particularly the various species of Pyrus, Thorns, Willow, and Poplar. They either tunnel into the main stem and render it so weak at the point attacked that it readily breaks across during windy weather, or, in the case of the caterpillars, feed on the foliage and greatly impair the health of the trees attacked. Spraying, hand-picking and shaking are to be recommended in the case of the caterpillars, while, in that of the goat and leopard moth, a small quantity of cyanide of potassium inserted in the mouth of the tunnel will either dislodge or kill the insect.

Watering should preferably be performed in the evening, the ground around the roots being thoroughly soaked, while mulching with freshly mown grass or old straw will greatly prevent the too rapid evaporation of the moisture. In extreme cases binding the stem with a hay rope is to be recommended. In order to prevent straining of the roots and bark chafing, the moorings of trees should receive a periodical examination.