An Apricot tree which has been shortened as a yearling, and trained into the shape of a fan in the same way as a Peach tree, is very easy to manage. It will produce three classes of growth: (1) Extension shoots, which may be laid in between the principal "ribs" of the fan if there is room, and the side breaks from them summer pruned to encourage the formation of spurs; (2) stubby growths, 4 to 6 inches long, which may be left intact for the lower part to plump up fruit buds; and (3) true spurs, i.e. stumps of growth each containing fruit and wood buds. Apricots are usually grown on walls, and practically all the knife work that is called for on established trees is the removal of "foreright" shoots, which, extending from buds on the front of the branches, stick out at right angles to the wall and get in the way. (For summer pruning see Fig. 9.)

Fig. 9. Pruning the apricot.
Fig. 9. Pruning The Apricot


A, extension branch: a, continuation shoot, not to be stopped in case of the tree extending, but now trained in at full length; b, side shoot, also to be trained in full length for furnishing the space, thus forming other growths at b, and in due coarse branches; c, short side shoot, not to be stopped where space permits of retaining it without overcrowding, but must be stopped if the wood is thick (see D); d, short, stubby semi-spur growth to be left intact.

B, spur of one year's growth, with buds, mostly blossom, in axils of leaves.

C, stubby side shoot, showing buds at bases of leaves.

D, stopped shoot: e, first pinching at third leaf; f second stopping to one leaf, and subsequently as produced; g, point of winter pruning.


The lateral growths ore too sappy or not sufficiently ripened to leave for bearing fruit, hence pinched shoots must be shortened firm wood.