Marking-Gauges. Fig. 42 shows the usual form of a marking-gauge. The steel point, or "spur," e, should be filed to a narrow edge, so that it will make a sharp line.

The graduations along the length of the beam B, are not to be depended on unless it is known that the zero line is exactly opposite the spur. When the zero mark and the spur do not agree, as is frequently the case, it is necessary in setting the gauge to measure from the head A to the spur e. A when set, is prevented from moving on B, by the screw C.

33. A Mortise-Gauge, shown by Fig. 43, has two spurs, a being fastened to the beam, and b to a brass slide which works in a groove in the beam. The spur b may be set at any distance from a by the action of the screw c. The gauge may, therefore, be set to line both sides of a mortise at the same time.

34. Panel-Gauges, Fig. 44, are for use in making lines at a considerable distance from the working-edge.

Fig. 42

Fig. 43

The length of the head A is sufficiently increased to receive good support from the working-edge, which guides it.

Fig. 44

35. Cutting-Gauges, having a long, thin blade in the place of the usual spur, are in form similar to that shown by Fig. 42. They are useful in cutting strips of thin material.

36. Chalk-Lines are very seldom used in bench work, but are often convenient in applying such work to larger structures. The cord used in lining should be as small as is consistent with strength. On most surfaces blue chalk is more easily seen than white.

37. The Scriber, as known to the trade, takes a variety of forms, from that of an awl to that of a peculiar short-bladed knife. A well-kept pocket knife of convenient size will be found a good substitute for any of them.

38. The Pencil used in lining on board surfaces should be soft, and kept well-pointed by frequent sharpening.

Chisels and Chisel-like Tools.

39. Firmer-Chisels have blades wholly of steel. They are fitted with light handles and are intended for hand use only.

Fig. 45

40. Framing-Chisels have heavy iron blades overlaid with steel. The handles are stout and are protected at the end by ferrules. This chisel is used in heavy mortising and framing, and is driven to its work by the mallet.

Compare Fig. 45, which shows a firmer-chisel, with Fig. 46, which shows a framing-chisel.

Fig. 46

The size of chisels is indicated by the width of the cutting edge, and varies from 1/8" to 1" by sixteenths, and from 1 1/4" to 2" by fourths.

41. A Corner-Chisel is shown by Fig. 47. Its two cutting edges are at right angles to each other, and this form renders it useful in making inside angles, as, for example, the corners of a mortise. Its handle is like that of a framing-chisel. The size of a corner-chisel is indicated by the length of one cutting edge.

Fig. 47

42. Gouges have blades that, throughout their length, are curved in section, as shown by Fig. 48. When the bevel forming the cutting edge is on the concave side, they are called "inside gouges"; when on the convex side, "outside gouges." For general purposes the outside gouge is most convenient, and the carpenter, with his limited facilities for the care of tools, can more easily keep it in order. The size of a gouge is indicated by the length of a straight line extending from one extremity of the cutting edge to the other.

Fig. 48

43. Handles for chisels, gouges, and similar tools, are of two general classes, light and heavy; the former are intended principally for hand use, and are shown in connection with the firmer-chisel and gouge; the latter, which are re-enforced at the end by a ferrule that they may withstand blows from the mallet, are illustrated in connection with the framing-chisel and the corner-chisel.

Handles may be shank-fitted, like the one shown by Fig. 48, or socket-fitted, as shown by Fig. 47. The better class of tools have socket-fitted handles.

44. The Drawing-Knife, shown by Fig. 49, is in reality a wide chisel, though it is quite different from a chisel in form.

Fig. 49

The handles are so attached as to stand in advance of the cutting edge, which is drawn into the work, instead of being pushed into it, as is the case with a chisel. The drawing-knife is very effective on narrow surfaces that are to be considerably reduced. The size is indicated by the length of the cutting edge.