To Adjust The Iron. To set the iron deeper, so that a heavier cut may be taken, strike it a light blow, as indicated by the arrow e, Fig. 84. If a lighter cut is required, strike the stock as indicated by the arrow f. When the iron is in the right position, a light blow will tighten the wedge. To remove the iron and wedge, turn the plane over so that the face is uppermost, grasp the iron and wedge with the right hand, hold the back end of the plane between the thumb and finger of the left, and strike the stock at f upon the surface of the bench. A single blow is usually sufficient.

Never strike the plane while it is resting on the bench or any support that is firm. It should be held in the hand clear of everything; but, if this is not convenient, one end may rest on the knee.

To set the iron in a wooden plane, hold the stock in such a way that, while the face rests on the hand, the end of the forefinger may extend across the mouth. Put the iron in place, allowing its cutting edge to rest on the forefinger, which should keep it from projecting. Insert the wedge, push it down with the thumb, and by a light blow with the hammer drive the iron down until its projection beyond the level of the face is equal to the thickness of the shaving that the plane is to take; a single tap on the wedge will then tighten the iron in place. The distance that the iron projects, can easily be determined by sighting along the face of the plane.

The wedge must not be driven too hard, for a plane may be so distorted by a hard-driven wedge as to make it incapable of doing good work. The iron will be held in place even when the wedge is so loose that it may be drawn out with the fingers.

Notwithstanding the fact that wooden plane-stocks are made from material little affected by atmospheric influences, they will warp enough, especially when nearly new, to bring the face considerably out of a true plane. When, from this cause, the plane fails to do good work, it must be jointed.

75. To Joint a Plane, fasten it in a vise with the face up and the front end to the right. The iron should be in place, the cutting edge well back within the mouth, and the wedge driven as for work. It is now necessary to determine whether the plane to be jointed is twisted or not (97). Apply two parallel strips, or "winding-sticks," (the longer legs of two framing-squares will answer), one across each end of the plane, as indicated by Fig. 95. After making sure that they are parallel, sight across one to the other. As the eye is lowered, if the one farther away is lost sight of all at the same time, the plane is "out of wind," and needs only to be straightened; but, if one end of the straight-edge that is farther from the eye, disappears before its other end, as in the elevation, Fig. 95, it is evident that the two corners a and b, diagonally opposite, are high, and more must be taken from them than from the other corners. With this understanding, the fore-plane or the jointer may be applied until the plane is jointed, that is, until the face is a true plane.

During the planing process, frequent tests must be made with the parallel strips, to make sure that the high corners are being brought down properly. In the early stages of the work, the try-square may be used occasionally to keep the face as nearly as may be at right angles to one side, and the straightness of the face may be determined either by sighting or by use of the framing-square as a straightedge. A true face having been produced, the sharp angles between it and the two sides should be changed to slight chamfers, inasmuch as the sharp edges, if not removed, are likely to splinter off.

Fig. 95

Plan.

Elevation.

A few drops of lubricating oil rubbed on the newly-planed surface, will prevent wear and keep shavings from sticking.

Wooden bench planes have had their day, and are going out of use.

76. Iron Bench Planes possess the general characteristics of the wooden ones, but are superior to them in several respects. They are always perfectly true and, therefore, never require jointing. The cutting "iron," which, in this case, is not of iron at all, but of steel, is much thinner than that in wooden planes, and is, therefore, more readily sharpened. Its greater thinness is made possible by the thorough manner in which it is supported. It may be set and accurately adjusted in a very short time.

The arrangement of parts in Bailey's iron planes may be understood by reference to Fig. 96, which represents a jack-plane. The "wedge" A is of iron of the form shown; it admits the screw E through an enlargement of a short slot, and drops down, allowing E to take effect. By a movement of the clamp B, the wedge A is made to press upon the iron near its cutting edge, while the clamp presses against it at F. The screw E is never moved. The cutting iron is adjusted for depth of cut by the action of the thumb-screw D, which, when turned in one direction, moves the iron downward, and when its motion is reversed moves it upward.

Thus a single movement of B releases the wedge and iron, and a reverse movement secures them again, while D furnishes a ready and positive means for adjusting the cutting edge with a degree of delicacy which it is impossible to attain in wooden planes. These planes, all having the same adjustments, are made in every size.

Fig. 96

77. Planes of Wood and Iron Combined may be had, made up of the Bailey movements mounted in a suitable frame, to which a wooden face is fastened. Fig. 97 shows a Stanley combination smooth-plane.

78. A Circular-Plane has a thin steel face, straight when free, but capable of having its ends thrust down or drawn up, thus making the face concave or convex, and adapting it to work on an outside or an inside curve. Fig. 98 shows a Bailey's adjustable circular-plane.