For turning a small goblet the blank is secured to a screw chuck the same as the blank for the box (Lesson 26). Usually the blank is just long enough for the goblet, so that the end of the blank next the chuck will become the bottom of the goblet as in

Fig. 115. This saves some work and material, and makes the turning easier; because the shorter the piece, the easier it can be turned. If, however, the blank proves to be too long, it can be cut off the same as the box shown in Fig. 108 or the goblet in Fig. 122.

Be very careful to have the piece screwed on so tightly that it will not spring away from the facing in the least. Set the tee rest as in Fig. 113, also see Fig. 100, and rough the blank down to a cylinder. Stop the lathe and examine the piece carefully. The blank may have been resting at the corners, and now that they have been cut away, the piece may require tightening. Set the rest as in working the inside of the box cover (Fig. 101) and shape the inside of the

Fig. 112. Goblet.

Fig. 113. Rounding a Blank.

bowl, also square the end as shown in Fig. 105. Sometimes the tools will cut better, if the end of the rest is set into the bowl, as shown in Fig. 114. The inside should be turned very smooth, using first the gouge and then the round nosed scraping tool. Be sure that the scraping tool is very sharp.

You will need to use quite coarse sandpaper at first. No. 1 1/2 will probably be the best grade, unless the goblet is very large and of a coarse wood. If it is, use a little of No. 2 sandpaper. Hold the paper so it will not spoil the edge or rim of the bowl. To avoid this, you may need to tear the paper to 1/5-size or perhaps even smaller. Be sure to smooth the bottom end of the bowl, and also to sandpaper down any ridges on the inside.

Finish the inside entirely, including the polishing, for it is not best to attempt to polish the inside after turning the outside of the bowl. Each time a part is polished, it should be so well done that it will not be necessary to touch it again, for after the outside of the bowl is finished it is too thin to be

Fig. 114. Rest Inside of Bowl.

polished on the inside; and after the stem has been turned the bowl will probably revolve a little out of true, and the outside cannot then be polished.

The next part of the work is to turn and polish the outside of the bowl, polishing it to the small shoulder, S, Fig. 115. The reason for working to the point, S, is that the square corner at this point is a good place at which to join the two parts of the finish. After the outside of the bowl has been polished, turn the base and stem. Be very careful not to allow your tool to slip and spoil the base. Smooth the outer edge of the base with the skew chisel. Make several marks with the point of the chisel to assist in starting the gouge, which should be held as shown in Fig. 116. Be sure to have the edge of the base so thick that the pressure of the back of the gouge will not break the edge.

Turn the large curve with the gouge in the same manner as you turned the 1-inch cove. Use such tools in turning the stem as the pattern requires. Polish the base and the stem, and then remove the goblet from the chuck.

Fig. 115. Goblet Bowl Polished.

After the goblet has been removed from the chuck, the bottom may be rubbed on a sheet of

Fig. 116. Turning Base of Goblet.

sandpaper, laid on the bench or a flat board. Do not rub the bottom surface much, or the edge will be injured.