After the glue has properly set, which will require several hours, remove the clamp. Take off any surplus glue with a chisel, being careful not to roughen the surface of the wood. The pieces should be smooth at the sides where they join, but if they are not, plane down the side having a face mark until it is even, or flush, with the other face surface. Considerable care is required to avoid working the piece tapering or small at the outer end. Also avoid planing too much at the outer edge. Apply a straight edge or the try-square blade as shown in Figs. 59 and 60. Move the try-square over the entire surface and be very particular to have the plane cut at the proper place. In order to have the plane cut properly it is frequently necessary to take a shaving first from one of the pieces and then from the other, changing from one to the other at every stroke of the plane. When this side is correct, set the gauge to the thinnest corner and gauge around the piece to determine how much

Lesson-XVII-Finishing-The-Halved-Corner-61

is to be taken from the opposite, or back, side. Test this side the same as the first side, in addition to planing to the gauge lines.

After the sides are finished, place the piece in the vise as shown in Fig. 61, and plane the rough ends down even with the edge of the piece. Should the stub ends project more than 1/8 inch, line them with a knife and saw them to within 1/32 of an inch of the face of the other piece. Finish the

Lesson-XVII-Finishing-The-Halved-Corner-62

other end in the same manner. Measure the pieces at the ends and near the corner to determine if they are the same size at each end. If they are not, plane them until they are. Also test them by applying the head of the square to the face side and the blade along the outside edges. Also apply the square as shown in Figs. 57 and 62. All of these

Lesson-XVII-Finishing-The-Halved-Corner-63

Fig. 61. Planing in the Vise.

tests are required to determine whether the piece is correct. When the sides and edges are completed, line around them with knife and try-square, making them 6 inches long at the outside edge. Saw and chisel these ends the same as you did the ends of the first piece.

Finish this joint with sandpaper and apply two coats of shellac. The ends should be held in the same manner as the ends of the rule in Lesson 14 (Sandpapering) (Fig. 45). The end grain at the corners may be sanded as shown in Fig. 63, but the outer edges should be finished by holding the paper as shown in Figs. 46

Lesson-XVII-Finishing-The-Halved-Corner-64

Fig. 62. Testing the Outside of the Corner.

and 47. In sanding, where two pieces join with their grain running at right angles, as on the surfaces at the corners, sand the piece first which necessitates the paper passing over and scratching the other piece. Then sand the other piece, working carefully up to the end of the first piece with the folded edge of the sandpaper. This will finish the joint without leaving any marks from the paper on either piece. To smooth the edges at the inside of the corner, fold the sandpaper at a fresh place and press it closely into the corner. A scraper is sometimes of assistance in finishing in corners. Be very careful not to round the ends or edges.