The stock and finished sizes are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19 (Halved Cross)).

Line out the end for the pin with the try-square, knife, and gauge. Work it to exact size, being careful to keep the edges at the end smooth and of correct size. With try-square and knife draw the

Fig. 88. Single Dovetail.

lines for the inside end of the mortise, allowing a little to be dressed off after the piece has been placed together. Draw lines around the center of the piece and saw it in two. Do not forget to have two sets of face-marks on the piece before it is cut in two, for the face-marks are of special importance in dovetailing. Be very careful to have the face-marks both on the same side even in these simple exercises, for unless you do this now you will be pretty certain to make serious mistakes when you try to make drawers, boxes, etc.

Set the pin on to the face side of the piece which is to receive it, with the inside edge even with the line drawn for the inside of the mortise. Draw a line at each side of the pin, using a sharp pencil or knife. Saw the sides of the mortise, as in Fig. 72, and finish the mortise with a chisel. A hole may be bored at the inside end of the mortise, or it may be cut out entirely with a chisel and mallet. In case no hole is bored first, cut down from each side a little away from the line and, after the piece of material has been removed, finish the end and sides to the lines. Sometimes the lines made on the face side are carried around to the other side by using the try-square and tee bevel; but this is not the ordinary way, for with a little practice the mortise may be worked correctly without drawing these lines and thus save much time. In working a mortise for a dovetail there is need of considerable care in keeping the chisel from jamming the edges beyond the lines.

Glue this dovetail together and finish it the same as the slip mortise and tenon (Lesson 21 (Slip Mortise And Tenon)).