New subjects: Clinch nails. Stock lists. Three planes of projection.

See C, Chap. 4. Wood: Poplar, oak, or maple. Preparatory.

A.   Make working drawing.

B.   Make stock list.

C.   Cut blade of shovel from poplar, 1/2" longer and 1/4" wider than required.

D.   Cut back cleat of shovel from 1/2|" poplar, making allowance for working.

E.   Cut the handle from }7/8" hard wood, 1" longer than necessary. Exercises.             .                     

1.   A. Apply Ex. 1, 2 of Fig. 1, and Ex. 3, 4 of Fig. 5, to the blade of the shovel. Do not taper it. B. Plane and sandpaper the best side only.

2.   Make back cleat of required dimensions, not cutting it to length.

3.   A. Using 1" tinned trunk, clout, or clinch nails, fasten the blade to the cleat. Bore holes with a bradawl to insure that the nail will not split either piece of wood. Allow the ends of the cleat to project beyond the edges of the blade. Clinch the nails neatly on the top of the cleat, and be sure that no nail comes in the middle of the cleat, as it will interfere with fitting the handle.

B.   Cut the ends of the cleat off flush with the edge of the blade, and touch lightly with the block plane.

C.   Bevel the ends of the cleats.

4. Lay the blade under side up on the bench, holding the cleat against the edge, and taper it down to -5/32 at the thin edge. Use

the jack plane, and guard against planing the heads of the clinch nails, which should be set a little under the surface of the wood.

5.   A. Using the jack plane, square the handle to the required dimensions, leaving the piece the full length.

B.   Plane the corners until the piece is an accurate octagon the entire length.

C.   Plane each one of the eight corners off, and make the stick round. Set the plane to cut very fine in doing this, and in finishing it, the block plane may be used if very light touches are necessary, and if the cut does not tear the wood. Guard against the use of the spokeshave for this purpose, as it will result in making the piece too small. Do not depend upon sandpaper to round the handle, as it will not do it.

D.   Sandpaper the handle.

6.   A. Cut the end of the handle to fit the angle of the blade. B. Make a notch in the cleat, which will fit the handle.

C. Sandpaper the back end of blade and cleat, after they have been planed flush with a block plane. 7. A. With 1" and 1 1/4" clinch nails, fasten the blade to the handle.

B.   Fasten the cleat and the blade to the handle with 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" clinch nails.

C.   Bore holes carefully with a bradawl or small German bit.

In making this model, the utmost care will be necessary in guarding against splitting the wood, especially in the handle.

8.   Sandpaper the bottom and the edges of the blade.

9.   A. Cut the handle to required length.

B. Round the end of the handle, and sandpaper it. 10. Inspect for blemishes, and correct them. A model of this nature need not be finished.