190. Violet

190.    Violet. Dye a turkey red (see No. 189 (French Process for Dyeing Turkey-Red)), and then pass through the blue vat. (See No. 130 (Indigo Blue Dye for Yarn).)

191. Preparation and Dyeing of Woolens

191.     Preparation and Dyeing of Woolens. To prepare new woolen good3 for dyeing, the cloth or yarn (if the latter, it is first banded with twine into spindles, see No. 122 (To Prepare Cotton Tarn for Dyeing),) is steeped over night in soap lye, and then scoured through clean soap to remove all oil or grease that may be upon the wool. Instead of soap, a scouring mixture may be prepared with 1 pound soft soap and 1 pound common soda (or 1/2 pound soda-ash), in 10 gallons water.

Goods to be re-dyed must first be steeped and scoured in soap and soda. If the remaining color be unequal or dark, the goods must be worked for a short time in a sour, made by dissolving 2 ounces bisulphate of potassa in each gallon of water used. Woolen goods are always dyed hot, as near boiling

Eoint as possible; this necessitates the use of oilers, which should be of copper, or copper and tin, as iron will not answer the purpose. The dye-stuffs are generally put in the boiler, and the goods worked with it, but it is cleaner to make decoctions (see No. 94 (Dye Woods)), and use the clear liquor. All washings are to be in cold water unless otherwise specified. The quantities given in the following receipts are for dyeing 10 pounds of woolen goods, either cloth or yarn, unless otherwise specified.

192. Black

192.    Black. "Work for 20 minutes in a bath with 8 ounces camwood; lift, and add 8 ounces copperas; work 20 minutes more, then withdraw the fire from the boiler, and submerge the goods in the liquor over night, then wash out. "Work for an hour in another bath containing a decoction of 5 pounds logwood and 1 pint chamber lye; lift, and add

4 ounces copperas; work for 30 minutes longer, wash and dry.

193. Brown

193.    Brown. Work for an hour in a bath made up with 2 pounds fustic, 2 pounds madder, 1 pound peachwood, and 4 ounces of logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas; work for 30 minutes, wash and dry.

194. Brown Dye

194.    Brown Dye. The different shades of this dye vary from pale yellow and reddish brown up to very dark brown, almost black, every shade of which, however, may be produced, as the taste of the workman may dictate, by mixtures of reds and yellows with blues and blacks, or by simple dyes, which at once impart a brown, - as catechu, walnut rinds, or oxide of manganese.

Boil the cloth in a mordant of alum and common salt dissolved in water, then dye it in a bath of logwood, to which a little green copperas has been added. The proportion of alum should be 2 ounces, and of salt 1 ounce, to every pound of cloth.

Or boil the goods in a mordant of alum and sulphate of iron, then rinse them through a bath of madder. The tint depends on the relative proportions of the alum and copperas; the more of the latter, the darker will be the dye. The joint weight of the two should not exceed 1/8 of the weight of the wool. The best proportions are 2 parts of alum and 3 of copperas.

For other receipts for dyeing black and brown see Index.