"The battle of life on many links is owing to a lack of sufficient moisture, and we would find it possible to tide over a difficult and trying season if we occasionally paid greater attention to the moisture-holding capacity of the soil. The power of the soil to hold moisture is influenced by the quantity of humus present, as well as by the fineness of its state of subdivision.

"And what about lime? That, though it may be abundant in nature, is very frequently deficient in the surface soil of grass-land. Owing both to its natural tendency to sink in the soil and to the action of the rain that falls, it is washed to lower levels, beyond the reach of the roots. Lime is not only a plant food, but it acts upon and renders available for plants dormant food in the soil. It improves the mechanical condition of clay soils, making them more friable, while its effect upon sandy soils is, strange to say, exactly the reverse of this.

"Sinking a few inches into the soil, it serves to bind the particles together, and thus increases the power of the soil to hold and retain moisture.

"How frequently do we hear of green-keepers preparing and using a compost of lime and rich loam? But rarely, I think though I firmly believe that there are few substances so readily available and so potent for good upon many links throughout the country if intelligently prepared and properly applied.

"Whether it should be used ground as caustic lime, or as slaked lime, or as chalk, or to apply it as a compost, must be largely dependent upon the amount of organic substance and the general mechanical condition of the soil.

"And what of seeds? All I can say is that in the selection of seeds, as in the selection of manures, the greens committees would be well advised were they to place themselves in the hands of competent experts. My reason for advising this is, because when we consider the varied character of different soils in different districts, and that only a very few courses are capable of producing the fine, close turf so necessary on a putting green, the expert has not only to define the grasses that are suitable to the soil and situation, but he has also to determine the relative proportions they must bear to one another in the mixture, in order to produce the desired result

"Whatever may be the nature of the soil to produce a high-class putting green, our aim and object must be uniformity, both in the colour of the sward and fineness of texture. The surface soil must be rich, firm, fine, and level; and if a perfectly level putting green is not desired, the undulations must be gradual and not abrupt in character.

"As regards the sowing of seeds, grass seed may be sown at any time, provided neither drought nor moisture is excessive. As a general rule, from the first of March to the end of April, or from the last week in August to the end of September, are the best times for sowing. Although I have personally seen a considerable amount of sowing successfully performed late in October, and even in November, there are certain risks attached to the operation, under adverse climatic conditions, that it would be well to avoid when possible. Of the two seasons I have named, my opinion is that the end of summer sowing is to be preferred.

"Assuming that the ground is thoroughly prepared, alternately raked and rolled after digging until the surface is firm and fine, and manure incorporated, either by digging or raking, the seeds should be sown upon a consolidated surface. In order to secure absolute accuracy in the even distribution of the seed, the surface of the putting green from one edge to the other may be divided by means of six strings, crossing each other at right angles and at equal distances apart, thus dividing the green, if it is 20 x 20, into twenty-five portions 4x4, sowing not less than one bushel of seed on the whole green, or at the rate of one pound of seed to the 4x4, or sixteen square yards' space.

"Another method of sowing the seed effectually is by stretching two lines about five feet apart and apportioning a certain quantity of seed to the space of ground so divided. This ground must be gone over at least twice during the operation of sowing, care being taken to cover the surface evenly.

"After sowing, the seeds may be lightly covered with about forty bushels of soil to a putting green 20 x 20, which equals about two loads or cubic yards. Even a better plan than this would be to rake the seeds into the surface, using a tool in which the teeth are widely separated, afterwards rolling tightly down. Then on the rolled surface cover with some fertilising fibre, pressing this only very slightly with a much lighter roller than has been used previously.

"By following out the plan I have advised the seeds are well covered, and the compost acts both as a manure and a soil protective, preventing evaporation from the surface and in a great measure obviating the necessity of watering the young seeds,

"When the grass is just beginning to come up, it the ground from any cause is unusually loose, it should be compressed by means of a light roller, but the surface should not be broken in any way. I am convinced that the need of a little pressure, not too much, at this critical stage and under the conditions named is very frequently the cause of complete failure.

"Later on, when there is just sufficient growth to grip the edge of a sharp scythe, cut and roll alternately, continuing the use of the scythe until the surface has become thoroughly firm. In employing the machine the state of the weather will determine the height at which the grass is to be cut. At first the machine may be so set that it cuts moderately high, and provided the weather is dry and hot, it may be allowed to remain so. Should the weather, on the contrary, be showery in character, and the grass be growing freely, the cutting blades may be lowered at the discretion of the operator.