"Light rolling and mowing alternately are necessary in order to maintain the turf in a high state of perfection, combined with the judicious use of the proper kinds of renovating seeds, and enriching the surface periodically. Still, I regret to say that on many links there is too persistent a use of the heavy roller.

"During the spring and autumn it is admissible and necessary, but during a continuance of dry weather it exercises a harmful influence. On many soils the heavy roller not only unduly bruises the surface, but proves at the same time an effective instrument in robbing the soil of much of its needful moisture.

"The conserving of soil moisture is an important problem to many green-keepers, and we have a good illustration of the knowledge that is required in the fact that there is no instrument used by the green-keeper that requires greater judgment in its application than the roller. On greens where water is not laid on, those charged with their oversight perhaps scarcely realise that by the constant pressure of the heavy roller the moisture in the soil more readily rises by capillary attraction to the surface, evaporates, and is consequently lost.

"We can readily imagine a green or greens that have fallen into bad condition, possibly in consequence of hard wear and lack of nourishment, the consequence of this being that bare patches, weeds, and occasional patches of moss make their appearance. Should this be the case, the greens may be improved in the following way.

"In the first place, as a rule, the surface must be thoroughly scarified with a sharp-toothed rake, tearing out all the weeds, moss, and rough growths possible. If the physical condition of the soil is such that an increase in the density of the surface would be an improvement, as in the case of a light drifting v sand, it would be advisable to work well into the scarified surface half an inch or more of light loamy soil or some fertilising fibre.

"On the surface of a stiff, impervious clay, how ever, we would reverse this policy by working in either a pure sand or a light, sandy loam. In either instance there would be a manifest improvement in the texture of the soil, and not only in this respect, but in the fact that a good seed-bed would also have been so provided.

"On the surface prepared in this way, if it is a green 20 x 20, one half-hundredweight of special grass manure might be raked in, the necessary seeds being sown a few days later, the quantity required naturally depending upon the condition of the original turf. This being accomplished, the seeds must be covered and rolled as I have previously described.

"Coming now to the question of destroying weeds, in getting rid of these noxious products of the soil we must naturally prevent the act of seed production, this method, in many cases, if persistently followed up, being amply sufficient. But, after all, the eradication of weeds depends somewhat upon the knowledge possessed of the life-history and the duration of life of particular varieties.

"Annual weeds flower and seed once, and then they die. Biennial weeds seed but once, but, unlike the annuals, their life is protracted over two seasons.

The first is devoted to root and leaf development, while the second year seed is produced at the expense of the foodstuffs stored in the root during the first season's growth. Then, after the production of seed, death ensues.

"Perennial weeds reproduce themselves by seeds, and are also propagated by a persistent perennial root stock, which produces new shoots and new roots. Perennial weeds may be divided into deep-rooted varieties, such as ribgrass, dandelions, docks, etc., and creeping-rooted, such as buttercups, creeping silverweed, yarrow, etc. Annual weeds must be killed by cutting early and by depasturing with sheep.

"Biennial weeds must be cut below the juncture of the crown and root. If they are severed at a point above the crown the operation serves to increase the mischief rather than to diminish it. In the case of perennial weeds, cutting the root stocks, as a rule, propagates the evil, the complete removal of these root stocks being the sole remedy, although in many cases they may be starved to death, or at least weakened, by preventing the development of stem and leaves above the surface of the ground. In this sense, depasturing, the tread and nibbling of sheep, is a specific for the removal of many weeds."

"Well," was my remark, " I am rather surprised at what you say about sheep-feeding. Have you nothing further to add?"

"Yes," was Mr. Finlayson's reply, "I could say very much more; but it is like this: I hold very decided opinions as to the turf-making value of cake-fed sheep, though I am perfectly willing to admit there are two sides to the majority of questions. In this case, the other side is they do a certain amount of harm, perhaps, in breaking down bunkers, lying on the greens, scorching the grass with excreta, etc.

"Of course, club secretaries will have to decide for themselves in a case of this kind, and their decision will largely depend on the condition of the course.

"Perhaps the science of weeding," remarked Mr. Finlayson, in conclusion, "may be summed up in a word or two: Prevent flowering and seeding, and exercise the greatest care as to the absolute purity of everything used. Sow pure seeds, use pure dung and pure composts. Do not use road-scrapings as a top dressing, or dung containing the sweepings from a hay-loft, unless specially prepared in a manner calculated to kill all weed seeds that may be present

"Modify the environments of the turf you may desire to improve or grow by means of good cultivation, manuring, liming, and sheep-feeding, and do everything possible to make the surroundings favourable to your purpose. As a matter of fact, it is possible to very materially decrease all weed-growth by intelligent and persistent effort."