The iron should have a moderately-lofted face and should not be unduly light. The mashie, being used for shorter distances and for shots needing a higher trajectory, needs to be shorter in the shaft and to have a deeper and more lofted blade. Both these and the cleek and driving mashie should have strong, stiff shafts. The niblick, by reason of its exceptionally onerous duties, needs weight, loft and strength of shaft in still greater degree. It is a common practice, too, with the best professional players, to use iron clubs with the faces scored into ridges or punched with small holes. The contention is that a truer flight is secured; and though some of the leading amateurs dispute the efficacy of this expedient, it should be a sufficient argument in its favour that its supporters have the courage of their convictions. As for the putter, one of the bent-necked variety, as introduced and used by Willie Park (a prince among putters), will be found excellent for general use. The very slight loft on it seems to give the ball a greater tendency to accuracy of line by making it keep closer to the ground. For long putts, the wooden or aluminium putter will usually be found more effective. In putting, however, it is more a question of confidence than the style of the instrument, but the suggestion is offered here of what is the most likely to be found suitable. The beginner, having realised that the completion of his outfit of clubs is far from being a matter of idle selection, will readily understand that the cost of each of his clubs is by no means limited to its nominal price in view of the rejection of many found to be unsuitable. Yet, if he wishes to get full satisfaction from the game, he will rather exercise self-denial in other directions than deny himself faithful ministers to his sport. Then, too, an exchange with other club-members is often of mutual advantage.

He will naturally form an attachment for the occupants of his bag, and he will regard it rather as a pleasure than a duty to give them a solicitous care. In the first place, his bag should be of good leather with a hood or flap to protect the club-heads in wet weather. The shaft of his favourite clubs, especially of the driver, should claim his constant attention, for the shaft that is perfect (to him) is most difficult to replace.

The cleaning and polishing of the irons may safely be left to the caddies who can be trusted, as a rule, not to diminish the weight of the heads by excessive rubbing. But the player should see to it himself that the shafts are duly oiled after a wet day, carefully drying them first, for oil keeps moisture in as well as out, and so accentuates the evil. The faces of the wooden clubs should never be oiled if the surface is to be kept smooth and hard as it should be. The leather "grip," too, must be well dried to prolong its "life," for a new covering to the handle of the shaft introduces an undesirable element of unfamiliarity.

As to the selection of balls, little need be said. The day of the "gutty" is over, and those occasionally seen on the links are the survivors of a laudable prudence which was displayed aforetime, when long keeping improved the condition of the ball and encouraged the laying-up of treasures. The rubber-core is said to lose its resiliency in course of time, and so wise players make but small investments in them, preferring to rely on the professional's oft-renewed stock. But if the beginner happens upon a few of the older type, experimentum fiat in corporibus vilibus; it will be much cheaper for him. But when he is ready to play the round, he will find many serviceable "re-made" balls, which will do quite as well as the more expensive kind. The re-made ball is a sort of resurrection-ball; it is the old core in a new covering, and the combination does not appear to behave in such a disastrous manner as the proverbial wine.

If a new ball has been lying idle for some time, a good plan to prevent the paint from "chipping" is to carry the ball in the trousers' pocket for a while to render the paint less brittle. Some drop the ball into hot water for a few moments, but this rough and ready method is not recommended. The re-painting of balls that suffer no other disability is an easy matter that can be done "at home without hindrance to present em-ployment. "After dissolving the old paint from the surface of the ball in a solution of caustic potash, pour some good paint (to be obtained from a golfing outfitter) into the palm of one hand, and then roll the ball between the two palms until the surface is entirely covered. The balls should then rest on the tops of small-necked bottles for a few days in a dry cupboard until the paint is quite firm. Perhaps a better way is to take a piece of flat board and drive some pins in, and rest the balls on the pins.