Many beekeepers do not pack hives for winter, but there are some who do continue this practice. Those who do not pack do, however, leave plenty of honey in the hive for winter food, and provide a windbreak. If you live in a very cold climate packing is probably advisable and the following explains this process.

Bee Colonies packed for winter

Colonies packed for winter

Roofing paper is good and may be purchased in rolls about 100 feet in length and 36 inches wide. A piece 8 feet long is enough to go around the hive. This length will allow for a lap six inches and the two ends should be fastened together with large nails or pieces of wire to form a cylinder which is placed around the hive, the bottom of the cylinder resting on the ground. A lath is nailed to the cleat above the entrance to prevent packing from getting into hive entrance. Laths should also be tacked at the bottom of the hive on the other three sides.

Dry forest leaves, or in the absence of leaves, coarse sawdust or planer shavings are poured in on the top of the hive and tamped lightly around the sides and ends, especially the corners of the hive. At least eight inches of packing is placed on top of the hive cover and leveled off.

The edges of paper are then folded in over the top and a piece of tar paper is placed on top, extending down on sides and ends as shown in the picture. The top and sides should be held in place with a strong cord or a cheap clothes line. The work is now complete except that an opening should be cut through the paper at the entrance the exact size as the entrance.

Smoking Bees to Calm Them

If the hive has an outer cover, remove it. It does no harm to blow a little smoke in the hive entrance to disarm the guards. Next insert the hive tool under one corner of the inner cover and blow a little smoke through this small opening, then wait a few seconds until the bees have gone down between the combs. After removing the cover, blow some smoke over the frames, but not too much. A little experience will teach you just how and when to apply smoke. The smoke causes the bees to put their heads into open cells of honey and fill up, after which they are more docile and submit to handling.

Burlap Sacks for Smoker Fuel

For smoker fuel there is nothing better nor handier than old dry burlap sacks that are torn and unfit for further use. Cut up pieces may be used, but for a longer period a little preparation helps. Roll up the sack to a diameter that can be stuffed into the smoker. Tie strings around the roll about six inches apart. With a knife or hatchet cut the roll between the strings into six inch lengths. Light one end and push it down into the smoker, working the bellows a few times to make sure it is burning well.

You can also use old rags, planer shavings, rotten wood, etc.

Use Full Sheets of Foundation

We strongly recommend full size sheets of wax foundation for both frames and small sections. The cost is more than made up by the fact that the bees will form cells faster and store more honey if they do not have to take time to fill the frame or sections with foundation. It is also just as fast for the beekeeper to insert full sheets of foundation as it is for him to cut strips and insert them. Full sheets are supplied with the Root beginners' outfits.