The ridge of a shingle roof is commonly finished by sawing off the tops of the shingles and nailing two boards called saddle boards over them, as shown in Fig. 166, and in section in Fig. 168. If an ornamental cresting is desired it may be sawn out of a plank, set on edge, with the bottom edge formed to set over the saddle boards. In large cities it is quite a common custom to finish the ridge of suburban dwellings with a galvanized iron cresting, as shown in Fig. 169.

The hips. of a shingle roof may be finished in three ways: A, by means of a wooden or metal hip roll; B, by close shingling and flashing, and C, by shingling parallel with the hips.

In the first method wide shingles are selected for the hips, and they are cat off on the slant of the hip, a wooden moulding of the shape shown in Fig. 170a, or a metal hip roll, of the shape shown in Fig. 170b, being set over the joint. Wooden hip rolls may be worked

Fig. 170a.

Fig. 170b. - Metal Hip RoIl out of 1 ¾ or 2 ¼-inch stock. They are often turned in ornamental patterns to represent tiles. When galvanized iron or copper hip rolls are used it is best to nail a wooden hip pole to the roof, under the metal roll, and the latter should be nailed to it. In a great deal of work, however, this wooden pole is omitted, the metal being simply nailed to the roof through the flanges.

Fig. 171.

In making a close hip wide shingles should be selected and cut to a pattern, as shown at A, Fig. 171, and over each pair of hip shingles a piece of tin or zinc, 5x5 inches, bent to the proper angle, should be nailed, so that it will come just above the bottom of the next shingle This tin makes the hip tight and prevents the shingles from splitting and being blown off. The edges of the hip shingles should be lapped alternately over each other as shown. This makes a tight and very-neat looking hip. On very steep roofs the shingles need not be cut at right angles to the hip, but the butts carried out straight, using the tin shingles as above.

A modification of this method, sometimes adopted, especially on spires, is to form the hips by a 1 ¼-inch wood bead, nailed to the boarding on the line of the hip, and covered with long strips of tin or sheet lead, 10 inches wide, turned over the bead and spread out on the roof (as at B), the edges of the shingles being lapped over the flashing and laid close against the 1 ¼-inch bead. When care is taken to have the beads perfectly straight this makes a very pretty hip.

The third and cheapest method, sometimes called the "Boston

Hip," is to lay a course of 4 or 5-inch shingles parallel with the hip and over the other shingles, as shown in Fig. 172, the hip shingles lapping each other alternately, as shown at A, A. The hips and ridges of a roof are not very apt to leak, but unless the shingles are well secured they are liable to be blown off. With a hip roll it is easier to make the hips straight than by the other methods.