The construction of inside door frames varies in different portions of the country. In the New England and some of the Middle States the frames are usually made out of 1 ¾-inch plank, rebated ½ inch for the door, and, in the better class of work, beaded on the edge, as shown at D, Fig. 234. The side pieces or jambs are housed or let into the head and nailed from the top. In some if not all of the Western States the frame is made
Fig. 233 of plain 7/8 or 1 1/8-inch boards housed together, and with a stop nailed or screwed to the frame for the door to strike against, as shown at E. The former method is probably the best for heavy doors, as it gives more depth of wood for the screws, but in wood partitions a frame such as is shown at E, if 1 1/8 inches thick, can be made perfectly solid and will hold any ordinary door. Besides being the cheaper frame it has the advantage that the door can be changed to swing on the other side of the partition by reversing the stop bead, and the head of the frame is at the same level on both sides of the partition.
A frame such as is shown at D has the disadvantage that owing to the rebate the casing or trim will be \ inch higher on one side of the partition than it is on the other, and if two doors come near together and swing on different sides of the partition the difference in the height of the head casings will be very noticeable. This may be overcome, however, by rebating both edges of the frame.
In setting the studding the rough opening should be of such a width that there will be about ¾ or 7/8 of an inch between the back of the frame and the stud to allow of plumbing the frame. Wedges are then driven back of the frame and the frame nailed to the studding.
In cabinet work the frame should be 1 ¾ inches thick to permit nailing behind the casing.
The width of the frame should be just equal to the distance between the faces of the grounds, which should be set perfectly plumb.
The grounds should also always be kept a little back from the edge of the studding, so that they will not be disturbed in driving the wedges back of the frame.
Hard Wood Frames. - The sections shown at D and E are for frames of soft wood. If the finish is to be of hard wood the frames should be veneered as shown in sections G and H, the veneering being ½ inch thick. If the rooms connected by the doorway are finished in different woods the same woods should be used on the frame, so that when the door is shut the frame will appear to be of the same wood as the finish. If the corner of the frame is to be beaded it will be necessary to veneer the edge of the frame also.
When the frame is made with the stop bead planted on, the entire thickness is often made of hard wood, especially if of the lower priced woods, but the veneered frame will stand better, and when the adjoining rooms are finished in different woods veneering is necessary.
Panel Jambs. - When the partitions are 10 inches or more in thickness, as would be the case when built of brick, the door frames should be built up, either in the form of panels, as shown at I (called paneled jambs), or in two parts, as shown at K; the latter is obviously the cheaper method, but does not look quite as well. If the finish is to be of hard wood the frame should be veneered and the panels and mouldings should be of hard wood. In churches and public buildings a narrow frame is often set on one side of the partition, as in K, and the rest of the jamb is plastered, a small moulding being placed in the angle made by the frame and plaster. (See also Section 106.)
Frames for Double Action Doors. - For double action doors the frames should be made of a plain board or plank with a hanging strip let into the hanging jamb of the same thickness as the door, as shown in Fig. 235. The other jamb and the head are usually left plain, unless there are double doors, when, of course, both jambs are alike*
Sliding door frames are usually made of plain 7/8-inch boards with a moulded strip, similar to a "stop," bradded on each side of the pocket, as shown in Figs. 236 and 257.