Set all partitions as shown by yellow color on the plans, with 2x4-inch (spruce) studs, sized to a uniform width, set 12 inches on centres for bearing partitions, and 16 inches for all other partitions, all straight and plumb. Try with a straight edge, and straighten and bridge before plastering.
All partitions except those that stand over each other, to stand on a 2x5 ½-inch sole piece, and all to have (3x4-inch) (hard pine) caps. Where a partition stands over another or over a wall or girder; the studs of the upper partition must stand on the cap of the partition below or on the girder - not on the floor nor on the beams. Truss over all openings in partitions which extend through more than one story or carry beams, with double headers 1-inch apart, and strongly truss all partitions not supported from below, to take the weight off the middle of the beams.
Cut a 2-inch plank header between the studs over the pocket for sliding door partitions, (8 inches)'above the soffit of the doors, and line the pockets below with 5/8 x6-inch matched boards (painted both sides before putting up).
Bridge all partitions in first and second stories with (two) rows of horizontal (diagonal) bridging of 2x4-inch pieces cut in between the studding and nailed with. two 10d. nails at each end of each piece.
Mineral Wool Filling. - Fill in between studs at (south and east) sides of bath room with mineral wool from floor to ceiling.
Mice Stops, - Furnish and put down strips of tin, formed to a right angle between the studs of all outside walls on each floor. This tin to be well nailed to the floor and the sheathing to prevent the circulation of mice. All holes around* the studs at partitions are to be closed in the same way.
Cutting and Fitting. - Do all cutting and fitting required by plumbers, gas fitters and for furnace pipes and registers, repairing neatly afterwards. No bearing timbers to be cut without consulting the architect.