636. Air-Bells

Air-Bells. Dusting before development with a brush is usually valueless, and the practical worker seldom performs this operation. Air-bells are much more likely to occur than pin-holes, during development, and these may al-

ways be known by their slightly larger size and by their roundness. The air-bells are caused either by previous wetting of the plate or the careless pouring on of developer. They keep the developing solution from acting on the exposed surface, and as the silver salts are not then affected by the developing agent this spot will fix out in the Hypo, leaving a perfectly round transparent hole.

637. Spotting With Ink

Spotting With Ink. The preceding suggestions are intended for those who are particularly interested in the making of negatives. If it has not been possible to avoid the pin-holes or air-bells, the simplest remedy, and perhaps the quickest method of all, is to use a fine sable brush and some opaque color, and touch each pin-hole, making it a black or opaque spot instead of a white or transparent one. The transparent spots print black on the paper and cannot be removed without considerable effort, at least. The opaque spot, however, prints white, which gives you a chance to remove it by either again employing the brush and color, or the pencil, working it up until it matches the adjacent tint in tone.

638. You should not strive to fill up the holes solid, however, for this will necessitate hand-work on each and every print that is made from that particular negative. As much work should be avoided as possible, and the pin-holes or air-bells should be made to blend and match the surrounding tint. Small fine dots will break up the imperfection and permit it to print exactly the same as the adjacent tint.

639. There are specially prepared spotting colors, but a stick of India ink will answer every purpose. As black matches very well with the metallic silver of the emulsion, it is advisable to use the India ink. A little may be rubbed upon your thumb nail or on a piece of glass (which has been previously moistened) until the nail or glass is quite well charged. Allow this to dry before attempting to use it; it will take but a minute or so. Slightly moisten with the lips a very thin pointed brush, the smallest size obtainable, and rub on the India ink until you have a

slight deposit on the brush. Apply the tip of the brush to the spot and if it is very small it will be removed with one touch.

640. If the opaque mixture in the brush is thin the film will absorb the water color and the hole will be unfilled, the color forming a ring around it. On the other hand, should the color be thick, a tiny touch will deposit the color and it will stay exactly where applied. Only the point of the brush must be used, and it should be kept at right angles to the surface of the negative. If the imperfections are quite large, such as air-bells and where the hole does not go through to the glass, the solution in the brush may be much thinner, but it should be applied to the negative in tiny spots, giving a stipple effect.

641. When attempting to remove large transparent portions, the ink should be applied first very lightly, and with the ink diluted in color, so as to simply give a coating over the surface, after which it will be possible to apply a heavier ink and have it adhere to the emulsion. Should too much ink be applied to any portion it may be easily removed by scraping very carefully with the etching knife. You must, however, be very careful when applying the etching knife to remove any surplus ink, that the film is not wet, as there would be immediate danger of pulling the film from the glass in the wet spot. A general rule for spotting the negative with a brush is not to have the ink too wet, and not to lift the brush from the film too quickly. Let it remain in contact with the film for a second or so, and thus give the ink an opportunity to soak into the film a trifle.