This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Form: A line made by a portion of sewing thread passed over and under an equal or unequal number of threads in the cloth.
To make: Take up a little cloth, pass over same amount or more (Fig. 94).
(Not a permanent sewing; used only to hold edges of cloth together until firmly sewed.) There are two types of basting, even and uneven. Always use a knot; fasten by taking two or three small parallel stitches diagonally across the cloth above the end of the basting. In removing basting stitches, clip the thread at intervals, to prevent tearing the material as they are withdrawn.
Fig. 94. - Running stitch.
l. Even Basting. - Form: Stitches of equal length on both sides of cloth (Fig. 95).
2. Uneven Basting. - Form: Longer stitch on upper side than on under.
Form: Short stitch on under side of cloth, long stitch on upper side (three to four times under stitch).
Fig. 95. - Even basting.
Use: Holding two thicknesses of material, wool or silk, securely for stitching seams (Fig. 97).
(c). Diagonal Basting. - Form: Short vertical stitch on under side of cloth, long stitch diagonally across upper; repeat.
Use: Basting linings to outside materials (Fig. 98).
Fig. 96. - Guide basting.
Use: Joining two pieces of cloth to form a seam (plain); first sewing of a French seam (Fig. 99).
To make: The work advances from right to left, start by taking a stitch from left to right through upper thickness of material on line for seam; then, as work advances, from right to left, by making small, even stitches, the end of thread is securely held.
Fig. 97. - Dressmaker basting.
To fasten: Push the needle through to the under side of the cloth, take two stitches, one on top of the other, through one thickness only; bring the needle through the last stitch to knot it.
Tucking: Running Stitch. - To make: Small even stitch, being careful not to draw the thread tight. Sew on line of pin-pricks or crease. Uneven stitch is used in tucking chiffon or similar materials, the longer stitch on the wrong side (Fig. 100).
Fig. 98. - Diagonal basting.