This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Linen Crash Ramie Linen
Indian Head Muslin
Use the pattern drafted to measure, designed from drafted pattern or a commercial pattern, for this skirt. Give careful heed to the placing of the pattern. Do not consider the first planning final nor the second, but try laying the pattern without pinning to the material until the most economical method has been found.
General rule for placing the pattern for cutting a gored skirt: this rule applies to material having no up or down: First, place the broad end of the largest gore to the cut ends of the material, having the straight edge of the gore, from the hip line down, parallel with the selvedge. Allow one and one-half inches on the lengthwise seams, one-half inch at the top and the desired hem at the bottom. Second, place the narrow end of another gore between the one just placed and the selvedge, providing for the same seam allowance. Fit the remaining gores as seems best. The center lines of panels are placed on the lengthwise thread of the goods (Fig. 190).
In Fig. 191A is shown the method of placing the pieces of a skirt pattern on material having no up and down, and in Fig. 191B, the method of placing the same on material of the same width, having an up and down. Note the greater amount necessary in the second. In Fig. 192 is shown the placing of a circular skirt pattern on material for cutting out.
When the pattern has been placed in the most economical way, mark the seam allowance lightly and occasionally with chalk, or with tape measure at seam allowance mark on edge of pattern, move it along edge of pattern for a guide in cutting. Cut all around pattern on seam allowance marks.
After the skirt has been cut out, mark all seams, waist, hip and finishing lines, center front and back. Use a tracing wheel on cotton or linen where the tracings will hold, or use chalk-board, p. 317. Do not trace hip line all the way across cloth: one-quarter-inch marking inside seam line will suffice. If the material is too soft to hold tracings until basted, or a chalk-board is not available, mark with tailor basting or tacking, p. 317. When the seams have been traced, mark waist, hip and finishing line, center front and back, with colored thread, or tailor baste them.
Mark center front and back with colored thread. To baste a panel front, turn the edge of the panel on the seam line, and baste one-quarter inch from the turned edge, to keep the line firm. Press edge of panel. Lay the side gore on the table and place the folded edge of the panel to the seam line of the gore, having waist, hip and finishing lines meet. Place pins at right angles to the seam and baste one-quarter inch from the edge (Fig. 193). Baste the left hand side to within twelve inches of the top to allow a placket opening. Baste a one-half inch lengthwise strip of material to the edge of the placket to keep it from stretching while fitting the skirt. To baste two gores together for a plain seam, lay the straight edge of one gore on the table with the bias edge of the other on top (Fig. 194) ; pin traced seam lines together, letting waist, hip and finishing lines meet. If both edges are bias, keep the more bias on top while you are pinning them together.
Fig. 190. - Six-gore skirt pattern placed on material for cutting out.
FiG. 191. - Placing patterns for gored skirts; A, material with no up and down;
B, material with an up and down.