Coat Or Hem Opening

This finish is made by folding back the material of the front to the wrong side without turning the edge in, and basting one-quarter inch from the edge of the fold.

This edge is later stitched in one with the collar. If the material of the waist is light weight, a strip of nainsook or batiste may be laid under the folds of the fronts to give them firmness and also strengthen it for the buttons and buttonholes (Fig. 178). Both sides of the front may be treated in the same way, the width of the hem depending upon the type of neck finish to be used.


(1) For the open neck line the collar may consist of a double thickness of cloth, fitted to roll back from the neck. This may either be basted to the neck line, already cut in V-line, holding the under side of collar to the right side of waist (with center of each meeting), then stitched and finished with a narrow bias, or shaped facing, or one thickness of the collar may be sewed to the waist and the other thickness hemmed to the first sewing. (2) The neck of the waist may be left high, and a lengthwise double strip of material, twice the depth desired for the collar, cut the length of the neck, plus the seams. The ends of this strip should be stitched across, then the collar turned right side out, one thickness sewed to the neck of the waist, the other hemmed to the first stitching. The neck of the waist may then be opened as low as wished, or closed all the way up the front, leaving only a turn-over collar at neck.

Tucked or plaited waists may be designed directly in the material, using a fitted pattern. For such design follow the directions given on p. 154. The waists may be finished the same as plain tailored waists.

Waist With Gibson Plait

This type of waist may also be designed in cloth from a fitted pattern. Proceed according to directions for designing waists, on p. 156. Finish the waist as other tailored waists are finished.

Suggestive Questions

1. How do you fold material to form a box plait in the front of a waist?

2. Describe the method of basting a shirtwaist for fitting.

3. How do you place the sleeve?

4. Show, by diagram, how to cut a collar band with neck protector.

5. Name the steps in the process of facing the placket of a sleeve.

6. State the rule for placing buttonholes in a shirtwaist.

7. In what way is the making of a Gibson waist different from a plain tucked waist?

8. How would you space the buttonholes in a tailored waist? What type of buttonhole should be used?